Turquoise & Silver: A Professional Assessment of Three Southwestern Masterpieces
by with Jessica Rickman CPPA, Certified Personal Property Appraiser
As of late 2025, the broader jewelry market has seen a distinct pivot toward sculptural silver, making it a defining macro trend for 2026. Concurrently, turquoise has emerged as one of the most searched gemstones this year. The contrast of bold, handcrafted silverwork with natural stones perfectly aligns with current consumer appetites for earthy, substantial jewelry.
Recent mid-2026 auction results demonstrate a strong willingness from collectors to pay premiums for signed quality sterling pieces with quality stones.
In this article, I’ll appraise three exceptional handcrafted pieces that have crossed my path recently.
- Third Phase Navajo Concho Belt
In the world of Southwestern Native American jewelry, few forms command the presence of a Third Phase Navajo concho belt. Standing at the intersection of cultural history, metallurgical skill, and raw material scarcity, these wearable works of art represent one of the most celebrated traditions in American craft.
Among these treasured artifacts, a particularly exceptional mid-to late-twentieth-century piece recently came to light, one that seamlessly marries heavy-gauge sterling silver repoussé work with one of the most sought after gems in the collecting world, natural Mediterranean red coral.
While Southwestern silver is most famous for its pairing with turquoise, the inclusion of natural Mediterranean red coral puts this belt into an elite tier of desirability.
The belt follows the classic Third Phase concho design tradition, characterized by large, scalloped oval conchos interspersed with smaller “butterfly” spacers, all secured on a heavy leather strap.
Genuine Mediterranean red coral (Corallium rubrum) of this intense, saturated crimson hue has become extraordinarily scarce. Stringent environmental harvesting restrictions in the Mediterranean Sea have severely limited the availability of natural, untreated coral. Unlike modern treated or dyed substitutes, vintage cabochons of this quality retain a rich, organic warmth that cannot be replicated.
The defining feature of this piece is its remarkable repoussé silver work, a demanding technique where the silversmith hammers the metal from the reverse side to create relief designs, before returning to the front to chase and stamp intricate, hand-tooled geometric patterns around the dimensional centers. Doing this on heavy-gauge silver
without tearing the metal requires absolute mastery of temper and force.
Weight: 670.1 grams Length: 43.5 inches
Marks: “FW” (possibly Fred Woody) and “Sterling”
Appraised Insurance Replacement Value: $3,500.
- Sterling Silver and Gold Naja Necklace
This stunning masterpiece is a one-of-a-kind sterling silver and gold naja necklace by Japanese artisan Ryo’s Smith, known for his high-quality custom work heavily influenced by traditional American Southwestern and Navajo styles with a strong focus on intricate stamp work and high-grade turquoise. Ryo’s work is rare, highly coveted, and extremely difficult to find on the market.
This piece features a unique sterling silver naja pendant highlighted by a beautiful turquoise cabochon resting in a gold serrated bezel. Ryo’s Smith’s pieces always incorporate hand-selected, high-quality varieties of turquoise. After analysis and discussion, I’m fairly confident that this cabochon is a high-grade, water-webbed Kingman turquoise gem from the historic Kingman mine in Mohave County, Arizona.
The pendant hangs from a leather cord adorned with white heart red beads and silver beads. The leather cord and pendant measures approximately 33 inches from end to end and the naja measures 1 7/8 inches across at the widest point and 2 inches from top to bottom. The total weight is 49.1 grams. The naja is further accented by a central hand-stamped double cross and a carinated finish.
Honestly, this is one of my favorite all-time pieces due to its uniqueness. It would look right at home around the neck of a famous rock or country musician here in Nashville or anywhere else.
Appraised Insurance Replacement Value: $2,750.
3) Margot De Taxco Snake Silver and Enamel Necklace & Earrings
This is a beautiful, elegant, vintage, sterling silver choker necklace with an articulated champlevé enamel snake designed by Margot de Taxco (Margot van Voorhies Carr), with matching earrings.
Margot was the original visionary designer behind these pieces. Margot didn’t physically make the jewelry; she designed it and employed master silversmiths and enamellists to execute her watercolor drawings. Her shop operated from 1948 until it closed in 1974.
Signed “MR” for Melesio Rodriguez, highly-skilled artisan and manager of Margot de Taxco’s workshop who later produced these on her own with the original molds in the 1970s.
The necklace weighs 84.3 grams and measures 18 inches. Excellent condition with age-appropriate patina and no enamel loss.
Appraised Insurance Replacement Value: $2,500.
Note: The value expressed herein is based on the appraiser’s best judgment and opinion for educational and entertainment purposes only as of July 28, 2026, and is not a representation or warranty that the described item would realize that value should it be offered for sale at auction or otherwise, nor is it a guarantee of authenticity. For a full, formal documented appraisal of your items for insurance or other purposes, please contact Jessica Rickman.
Jessica Rickman, based in Nashville, Tennessee, is an accomplished Certified Personal Property Appraiser (CPPA, PACC, USPAP) specializing in antiques, jewelry and collectibles. A graduate of Belmont University and Asheford Institute of Antiques, Jessica combines academic rigor with a deep passion for preserving history through procuring unique historical items. For inquiries, connect with her via email at jessica@antiques615.com or Instagram, @antiques615.
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