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Buying Jewelry This Holiday Season:



                        How does your gift measure up?


                                                                                                                                by Kary Pardy

                   ow many times have you looked through a jewelry display at   price, some imperfections are not
                   your favorite antique shop and was just a bit unsure about the   visible with the naked eye and
            Hquality or elements of a piece you wanted to get as a gift?      won’t dampen your enjoyment of
               When you’re considering buying antique jewelry or are curious   your stone. When evaluating dia-
            about something you already own, it may seem daunting to learn more,   monds, first do your best to deter-
            but information can be the difference between a real ring or a costume   mine if they are real and worth
            one, between an heirloom or something that you might wear just for   your time, then take them to a
            fun. The key to knowing your jewelry, and indeed most antiques, is to   professional.
            use common sense and to think realistically. While it may be more fun
            to own a gigantic ruby, items are always fake until proven real, and if it   Other Stones
            seems too good to be true, it can be. But that doesn’t mean you can’t   Gemstones are in some ways
            do a little exploring.                                            even more complicated. Use your
                                         Shiny Stones                         gut and common sense again, and
                                               Common sense is key when we    after that, look at them closely.
                                              consider precious stones. Is it   True gemstones will have imper-
                                               likely that a random ring in a   fections caused by nature; fakes
                                              costume jewelry box has a real             will be pristine and
                                           diamond? Not really. Your grand-                       shiny. The
                                        mother passed down a brooch with a                          best bet with gemstones, though, is to take
                                     blue stone the size of a grape. For most                        them to a professional if they pass the
                                  people, that’s probably not a real                                 common sense test.
                              sapphire. But if faced with these items, we still
            have a few tricks up our sleeves.                                                       Pearls
               Let’s start with diamonds. If you are examining a loose stone, try the                  Pearls are formed over time when an organic
                                          water or the fog test. Diamonds are                     invader burrows deep into the soft tissues of a
                                          dense and if you drop one into      mollusk. The mollusk then coats the intruder with many layers of nat-
                                          water, it will sink. If it floats, you’ve   ural minerals and proteins, referred to as nacre (Nay-Ker). This is what
                                          got a fake. Similarly, try breathing   gives pearls their unique appearance, beautiful luster, and color.
                                          on the diamond and fogging it up.   According to the American Gem Society, most of the ocean’s natural
                                          Diamonds are effective at dispersing   pearls have already been harvested by pearl divers. Today, natural pearls
                                          heat; the fog should clear up quickly.   are extremely rare, so this process is re-created by oyster farmers who
                                          If it takes several seconds, you’re out   make cultured pearls.
                                          of luck. If the diamond is mounted,    The factors involved in choosing a quality pearl include color, luster,
                                          check how it’s mounted. Real        and the shape of the pearl. Freshwater pearls offer a wider diversity of
                                          diamonds would have strong          sizes, shapes, and colors than any other type of pearl. That’s
                                          settings, likely made of high-quality   why they are such a popular choice for fancy designer
                                          metal. You can also invest in an     jewelry as opposed to the classic round pearl. A good
                                          electronic diamond tester, a gadget   way to tell if your pearls are real is to rub them
                                          that has saved many a thrift shop   across your teeth – if it is coarse, it is most
                                          owner. They work by measuring       likely real. No two pearls are exactly the same shape
                                          how well the diamond conducts heat   and size, and making a graduated in size set of pearls
                                          or electricity and are fairly reliable   for a necklace takes a sharp eye and a high-end caliper.
                                          once you get the hang of using
                                          them.                               Ask for Help
                                             Some of the best tools, however,
                                          are a loop and knowledge of what to    An accredited jewelry appraiser will have taken several courses on all
            look for and what makes a diamond special. Diamonds are graded for   facets of jewelry evaluation and will have the necessary tools to best
            their carat, color, clarity, and cut. Jewelers will measure carats with spe-  examine all of your valuable pieces. Don’t be afraid to schedule an
            cial scales or size gauges, but you can’t price a diamond on size alone.   appointment to learn more about what you’ve uncovered. While we
            Some say that the cut of a diamond is most important because it is what   can learn a lot from a basic inspection and a little science, it’s nowhere
            really determines the diamond’s sparkle. Next comes color: the less   near the level of precision you’ll get by calling in the big guns. Find a
            color, the higher the grade. Clarity refers to any imperfections that may   list accredited jewelry appraisers through the Gemological Institute of
            be in the stone. This is least critical because while it will reduce the   America (GIA). Visit www.Gia.edu or www.925-1000.com
















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