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paraphrase of Jackson’s The Bold and
famous dinner toast: “The The Beautiful
Union, It Must and Shall As the show moves
Be Preserved.” There is deeper into the 20th century,
also a chatelaine made by America’s penchant for bold
Gorham Manufacturing design comes into focus.
Company circa 1887 in Iconic styles that spurred
the form of an octopus international trends, like
belt hook with eight limbs Fulco di Verdura’s 1930s
from which small house- gemstone-studded Maltese
hold items could be carried cuffs, which were repro-
from its chains; and a hair duced by his friend in 1977,
ornament, designed by and David Webb’s enameled
Louis Comfort Tiffany
Known as carriage covers, these spherical circa 1904, one of three zebra cuff designed in 1963,
hinged pieces were used to conceal precious versions of the fragile mingle with the avant-garde
stones during the day, when a lady might be wildflower that Tiffany works of mid-century mod-
traveling by carriage and vulnerable ernists including Alexander
to robbery. These were an innovation of exhibited at the 1904 Saint Calder. The contemporary
American jewelers in the 1870s, and Louis World’s Fair. pieces illustrate how U.S.
this pair is c. 1882-85. Other unique additions designers have embraced
to this exhibit include
several examples of original, uniquely American creations. A circa non-precious materials, from
aluminum and Bakelite to
1851 hair comb, for example, is made of vulcanite, a chemically eggshells and electrical wire.
treated rubber invented by Charles Goodyear that affordably If you can’t get to see
mimicked the look of more expensive materials like tortoiseshell this exhibit in person at
and jet. Then there are the carriage covers—hinged gold orbs that The Met in New York City,
could snap on and off of diamond earrings to conceal the precious you can view it online at
stones during the day, when a lady might be traveling by carriage metmuseum.org to get up
and vulnerable to robbery—which were a pragmatic design and personal with the beauty In 1887, Gotham Manufacturing Company
solution patented by American jewelers in the 1870s. Both designs and history of jewelry, made created this octopus chatelaine,
display the innovative, unconventional attitude that would come to by and for Americans. which hooked onto a belt and had
define the American approach. small household items like scissors, knives
All photos courtesy The Met.
or pincushions attached to its chains.
Antiques Peek continued from page 30
December’s turquoise stone has
long been associated with success
and luck. In the third century,
turquoise was thought to protect its
owner from falling off a horse, and
Native Americans believe the stone
embodies the blue of heaven and
green of Earth. And the pearl
for June, representing health,
was ground to a fine powder and
mixed in a drink for Cleopatra,
who believed she was
drinking their beauty.
If you intend to Vintage 1970s “Mother’s Ring” featuring the
purchase jewelry birthstones of her four children
Antique August featuring your
Peridot Earrings incorporated into all sorts of unique items,
birthstone,
you might enjoy including rings, earrings, necklaces, and even watch
delving into the bands. It is also important to decide if you want to
historical beliefs associated with the stone. Keep collect jewelry featuring your own birthstone or the
in mind some of those beliefs were changed from birthstones of loved ones. For example, you might
region to region and century to century. want to wear a necklace representing a loved one
who passed away. You could also have special birth-
Collecting Birthstone Jewelry stone jewelry commissioned, such as a ring featuring
When collecting birthstone jewelry, you have a the birthstones of each of your children. The important
lot of options. You can look for antique pieces or thing is to choose birthstone jewelry that has a special
purchase newer pieces. You can also find birthstones meaning to you.
Victorian Amethyst Nexklace
Jessica Kosinski has been a freelance writer specializing in writing short articles for 15 years. She is also an avid collector of both antique books and Star Wars memorabilia. Although she is not
in the antiques industry professionally, she has learned a lot about antiques over the years by periodically helping out at her mom’s antiques shop in Greenville, NH. She currently balances
maintaining the antiques shop’s Facebook page, www.facebook.com/MallofNE, and working on various freelance writing assignments. She can be reached at dementorskiss77@yahoo.com.
32 Journal of Antiques and Collectibles