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“ ecessity is the mother of invention.” This Having oiled and slick hair was soon the fashion for
adage certainly applied to many of the men (and women) of all ages and backgrounds, a trend
Ndomestic objects produced in the that continued into the Victorian era. Unfortunately,
nineteenth century that served as creative the pungent and viscous oil tended to transfer from the
solutions to everyday problems; and for some back of one’s head onto the upholstery of a chair or
women, one of those problems happened to be sofa and leave behind a stain. By the 1850s, house-
their husbands’ hair. wives had a solution: a piece of cloth, easily washable,
which they placed over the back of the chair. Aptly,
Avoiding Disaster these fabric coverings came to be called antimacassars.
In 1783, a London barber named Alexander
Rowland produced a new conditioner to groom, From Necessity to Craft
style, and promote the growth of hair. Made Antimacassars were a staple of the Victorian home.
with a mixture of coconut or palm oil and other They were typically made by crocheting or tatting
fragrant oils, the newly patented Rowland’s (creating a series of knots and loops) patterns into a
Macassar Oil became a hugely popular and durable fabric that could be washed and reused. And
nationally advertised product. while the standard color was white, so as not to clash
with the color of the upholstery
underneath, pattern sources
suggested they could be made
from the odds and ends in
different colors.
The intrepid needleworker
might produce an original design
or work from a sourcebook such as
The Lady’s Every-Day Book: A
Practical Guide in the Elegant Arts
and Daily Difficulties of Domestic
Life (1880) and turn to lacemakers
for ideas using the latest fashion.
These mundane objects reflected
their owner’s tastes and contained
subtle details that make them
unique. The level of complexity
varied, and displaying beautiful,
hand-made antimacassars in the
public space of the parlor signified
not only a woman’s skill but her
abilities as a homemaker.
Lord Mayor’s Parlor, Sheffield Town Hall

Oval: Freemason Fred C. Palmer at Herne Bay showing his hair groomed with
Rowlands Macassar Oil

At left: Advertisement, Thomas Rowlandson, Etching colored, 1814.

“Macassar Oil, for the Growth of Hair, is the finest invention ever known for encreasing [sic]
hair on bald Places. Its virtues are pre-eminent for improving and beautifying the Hair of
Ladies and Gentlemen. This invaluable Oil recommended on the basis of truth and experi-
ence is sold at One Guinea Pr [sic] Bottle by all the Perfumers and Medicine Vendors in the
Kingdom.”

“Wonderful Discovery, Carrotty or Grey Wiskers, Changed to Black Brown or Blue”

“MACASSAR OIL, An Oily Puff for Soft Heads.”

22 Journal of Antiques and Collectibles