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J  ust imagine a world—if you can—in which the process of weaving   the silk into brocades, damasks, and tapestry-like fabrics. Brocades were
               was never discovered. Without weaving, people from the beginning
                                                                              woven by hand on large looms called draw looms. The weaver would
               would have been wearing leather all year long or grass skirts or fig
                                                                              the right color thread in the right part of the pattern. By the end of a
            leaves, probably until cardboard or plastic was discovered.       call out to the draw boy to tell which threads to lift and when to put
                                                                              full day, the makers may have completed two square inches of patterned
            Early Stages of Weaving                                           silk cloth.
                                          Throughout the ages, weaving has
                                       been used to make life better. In addition   The Jacquard Loom
                                       to clothing, weaving created shelter,                                            Jump forward in time
                                       fences, bedding, footwear, art and so                                         from when the linen cloth
                                       much more. When you contemplate all                                           for the Tarkhan Dress was
                                       the facets of life that were built upon or                                    first woven to the 18th
                                       rely upon some form of weaving, one                                           century, to the time when
                                       gains a greater appreciation for this                                         weaving played a central
                                       simple but often intricate art.                                               role in the development
                                          Take fishing, for instance. Without                                        of the first computing
                                       nets, the quantity of fish that could be                                      machines. In 1725, Basile
                                       taken one at a time with a line would                                         Bouchon created a means
                                       only support a family or two. Nets were                                       for controlling a loom
                                       needed to help feed a village, and thus,                                      by using holes punched
                                       this allowed the population size of towns                                     in sheets of stiff paper
             A ca. 490 BC design on a Greek   near the seashore and rivers to grow.                                  where threads would be
             attic oinochoe (wine jug) of a   Without woven canvas sails, fishing                                    fed through—a bit like
               woman spinning thread.  would be limited to how far a canoe        A 1725 Basile Bouchon loom on exhibit   programming an early
                                       could be paddled or a boat rowed. There       at the Metiers Museum in Paris.  computer—to aid in for-
            would have been no large sailing ships for exploration of the world or                                   matting color and design
            trade. Even Viking longboats relied on sails more often than rowing for                                  within the woven piece.
            long voyages. Continents separated by oceans would have remained     In 1804, Joseph
            mostly isolated until the age of steam power.                     Marie Jacquard applied
               Fortunately, people all over the world from the earliest times had the   this method to his
            weaving epiphany and realized they could weave palm fronds or grasses   own  creation,  the
            by hand into the necessities of life for warmth, protection, and comfort.   Jacquard loom machine.
                                                                              Jacquard’s machine was
            Innovation of Fabric                                              very successful, and
               The next epiphany that followed                                many imitated his design
            was thread being twisted or spin                                  from then on into the
            from twisted plant fibers first and                               20th century. Basically,
            then from animal hair and hide.                                   cards punched with holes
            Later, thread and yarn were spun                                  controlled which strings
            from wool, cotton, and linen. One                                 were raised on the loom.
            of the oldest dresses made of linen                               This not only sped up
            still in existence today is the                                   the work, but it also
            Tarkhan Dress, which was found in                                 made the creation of
            the Tarkhan Cemetery in Cairo,                                    highly intricate designs
            Egypt, in 1913. It is believed to be                              in material possible, such
            5,000 years old.                                                  as   brocade,   florals,
               Around the 6th century came the    The Tarkhan Dress has been    damasks  with   their
            exciting discovery of silk thread – its   radiocarbon dated to approximately   reversible fabric figures,   A carpet loom by Carl Engel with a Jacquard
            sheen and ability to take color.          5,000 years of age.     paisleys, and quilted or          machine on top, ca. 1860.

            Byzantine craftsmen would weave     Photo: © Mary Hinkley, The Petrie Museum of   padded matelassé.   Photo by Dmm2va7; CC BY-SA 3.0
                                                       Egyptian Archaeology
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