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Here Comes the Bride


                  The History of the






              White Wedding Dress






                                                                      by Maxine Carter-Lome, publisher

                he history of the wedding dress is shorter than the    Bible.
                                                                              Marriages were
                history of weddings, and even shorter still than the
                                                                              made official
            Thistory of marriage.                                             through     the
                                                                              signing of a con-
               An ancient Chinese myth contains one of the oldest known    tract or some
            references to such a garment, and it goes something like this:    other means of
                                               Once upon a time, in a green   formalized agree-
                                            and misty country at the center of   ment, but the mar-
                                            the world, there lived a clever dog   riage was not general-
                                            who was also a dragon. Naturally,   ly considered to be a
                                            he was unmarried. This dragon-dog,   spiritual or even romantic
                                            named Panhu, was the servant of an   occasion. And because there
                                            emperor, who was at war with a    were no weddings, for a long
                                            fractious general. One day, the   time there could be no true wed-                     Queen Victoria on
                                            emperor proclaimed that any man   ding dresses, either.                                her wedding day
                                            who could bring him the head of his
                                            enemy would be given the hand of  A Dress for the Occasion
                                            his daughter in marriage.            The wedding dress as we know it is one of the most epic pieces of
                                               Panhu was not a man, but being   fashion that anyone will ever wear; however, buying or having a dress
                                            loyal and courageous he promised to   made for this one, albeit most special of occasions, is a modern trend.
                                            become one upon vanquishing the   For centuries, marriages were created without any sort of formal wed-
                                            enemy so he could marry the       ding ceremony beyond the signing of a wedding contract or special
                                            princess. He succeeded, changed into   “wedding” gown.
                                            human form, and was engaged to       Up until the 20th century, most brides wore what was considered
                                            the emperor’s daughter. To make   suitable, and more often than not, wore the finest dress to be found in
                                            sure that the union was a lucky one,   their closet since it wasn’t considered prudent to purchase a dress that
                                             the empress dressed the princess in a   would be worn only once. If they did purchase a new dress, it was most
           The Panhu myth is an important
          origin myth for various ethnic groups.  beautiful phoenix dress and phoenix   likely a dress they could re-wear to other special occasions.
                                             crown, and Panhu carried his bride   In this area as well as many others during her reign, Queen Victoria
            off to live in the southern mountains. They were happy and had many chil-  was a fashion trendsetter. In 1840, when the young Queen of England
            dren. When it came time for their own daughter to marry, a real phoenix   married the love of her life, Prince Albert, she not only wore what we now
            flew out of a mountain and presented the girl with a colorful phoenix dress   recognize as a traditional “wedding dress” but she intentionally had her
            all her own.                                                      gown made in white, a color associated with purity and innocence.
               Although there have been marriages throughout most of human       Queen Victoria's wedding dress, with its slim waist, lace, and skirt
            civilization, this does not mean that there were weddings. There are, for   over petticoats and crinolines, was the crowning element of the first
            example, no wedding ceremonies involving an exchange of vows in the   royal wedding to take place after the invention of photography. The


                              Memorable Wedding Gowns & Brides                                  Queen Elizabeth II (1947)
                                                                                                   Designed by Britain couturier Norman
                              Queen Victoria (1840)                                             Hartnell. The gown was constructed with duchesse
                                Victoria’s famously white gown was constructed                  silk encrusted with 10,000 seed pearls and embroi-
                              with English Spitalfields silk and Honiton lace. The              dered with star lilies and orange blossoms. It cost a
                              Queen adorned her skirt, 139 inches in circumfer-                 whopping £30,000 ($37,000) and took seven
                              ence and 37-40 inches in depth,                                   weeks to make. The gown and its evocation of
                              with an exquisite Honiton lace                                    spring were meant to symbolize “rebirth and
                              flounce. The commission of the                                    growth” in Britain
                              Queen’s lace flounce employed                                     after the war.

                              two-hundred lacemakers, who
            were otherwise destitute.                                         Jacqueline Kennedy (1953)
                                                                                 Jacqueline Kennedy’s bouffant Ball
            Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon (1923)                                  Gown Wedding Dress was created by New
               Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon became an instant                    York City-based designer Ann Lowe. Made
            bridal icon when she married the Duke of York                     from nearly 50 feet of ivory silk taffeta, it
            in 1923. Her gown is today considered a classic                   featured many sentimental touches: her
            1920s piece of fashion with its dropped waist, pearl              skirt featured wax flowers woven into the
            and silver embellishments, and very art                           seams while her veil was passed down to
            deco headpiece.
                                                                              her by her grandmother.
            20               Journal of Antiques and Collectibles
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