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Publisher’s Corner

Mourning the Past journalofantiques.com

very culture – every religion – every person – conventions during the Victorian
mourns in their own way. The sentiment behind Era, following Queen Victoria’s Publisher
Ethat expression, however, is universal: honoring a death in 1901 we became more Maxine Carter-Lome
loved one in a way that publicly displays a depth of loss. internal and individualized in our Maxine Carter-Lome journalofantiques@gmail.com
In this issue, we look at the culture of mourning personal mourning practices. One’s Business Manager
primarily through the lens of the Victorian Era. This religious beliefs and ethnic background became the Jeffrey Lome
nationalistic embrace of ritualistic mourning represented personal dictates of mourning dress and rituals, and the jeffrey@journalofantiques.com
a transition period for mourners in Western societies, period for the public display of mourning for a loved one Managing Editor
democratizing the fashion and rituals of mourning once became abbreviated out of necessity and practicality. Yet Judy Gonyeau
reserved exclusively for royalty and aristocrats. Today, we also found common ground and national comfort in editorial.journalofantiques@gmail.com
the remnants of that era—from remembrance jewelry the adoption of universally acknowledged symbols of Art Director
to the accessories in various shades of black that mourning for those we respect as a nation, such as fallen Lynn Cotterman
carried men and women through the various stages of war heroes, political leaders, and treasured citizens. ads@journalofantiques.com
mourning—offer collectors, museums, and costume Memorial quilts, which you will read more about on
designers rich examples of mourning fashion, each item page 31, have a long association with loss and remem- Production
with its own meaning and associated rules of etiquette. brance. Traditionally a personal expression of mourning Lynn Cotterman
During the Victorian Era, adhering to the strict and in its making and giving to a survivor or for burial with Judy Gonyeau
complex set of rules governing the fashion and rituals the deceased, in more recent years quilts have taken on Jill Montague-Kaitbenski
associated with mourning was a way for one to show off more national symbolism. The AIDS Memorial Quilt,
their wealth and refinement. It required a significant for example, begun in 1987, is just one example of how
investment in time, money, and personal sacrifice, the we mourn as a nation and the symbols we universally 508-347-1960
luxury of which all but the wealthiest of families in embrace to show our respects and communicate loss. Toll free:
England could afford. Those of less than moderate The AIDS Quilt was conceived as a national 888-698-0734
circumstances but rising aspirations often over-extended initiative to provide a powerful and colorful reminder of Fax: 508-347-0911
themselves or worse, lost their home, in an attempt to the names and faces behind the statistics. When it was Mailing:
display their social ascension. displayed for the first time on October 11, 1987, on the P. O. Box 950
The fashion of Victorian mourning was also National Mall in Washington, D.C., it covered a space Sturbridge, MA 01566
embraced by mourners in the U.S. for many of the same larger than a football field and included 1,920 panels.
reasons its practices caught on in Western Europe. Today, the AIDS Memorial Quilt is an epic 54-ton info@journalofantiques.com
Old money looked to emulate the complex structure tapestry that includes nearly 50,000 panels dedicated to
UPS and FedEx
of this aristocratically English model of mourning as a more than 110,000 individuals. Shipping Address:
way to maintain some semblance of social order in the The black armband, first adopted as a sign of 46 Hall Road
face of a rising middle class and industrial wealth (“new mourning in 1770s England, is another. Today, black Sturbridge, MA 01566
money”). Up until the second half of the 19th century, armbands and ribbons are recognized symbols that
mourning cloth to be cut and sewn into the garments signify the wearer is in mourning or wishes to identify Journal of
required for each stage of mourning, and associated with a loss. Flowers at funerals are another example. Antiques and Collectibles
goods and accessories, were primarily imported from Flowers signify the cycle of life as they go from seed is published monthly in digital
and bi-monthly in print by
abroad; however, ‘sudden loss’ from illness, war, or child- to beauty to death in a short amount of time, and have Weathervane Enterprises, Inc.
birth, a common occurrence up until the 20th century, been displayed at funerals since at least the time of
made this dependence on England both impractical, Ancient Greece. Wreaths were often used when remem- 46 Hall Road
expensive, and exclusive to all but the wealthy. bering heroes or as tributes. Over time, specific flowers Sturbridge MA 01566.
The Civil War and its countless losses accelerated and colors took on individual meanings, especially dur- Periodicals postage paid at
the need for a domestic solution to the rigorous and ing the Victorian era. Sturbridge MA.
complex requirements of this imported trend. From that The British 17th century tradition of flying the flag
demand rose the industrial manufacturing of ready-to- at half-mast out of respect for a national loss is another POSTMASTER:
wear mourning garments and mourning warehouses of our more universally recognized symbols of loss in
(bereavement department stores modeled after their America, its lowering meant to represent the nation’s Send address changes to
English counterparts). Demand also gave rise to mourning. According to some sources, the flag is The Journal of Antiques
the profession of Undertaker, a professional who lowered to make room for an “invisible flag of death” and Collectibles
“undertook” the work traditionally done by a household flying above. The invisible flag of death is the only flag ISSN: (1539-5618)
member of preparing the body for burial, and funeral allowed to fly above the stars and stripes. P.O. Box 950
homes. As the mourning market expanded, department Mourning practices, symbols, and public displays Sturbridge, MA 01566
stores opened mourning departments and advertised will continue to evolve with the times and culture but The Journal of Antiques and Collectibles
mail-order mourning goods through their catalogs, change does not diminish the depth of one’s loss or the reserves the right to reject any advertising that
and ladies’ magazines and etiquette handbooks provided value we place as a nation on showing our respect. The does not comply with our standards. The
Journal will not be liable for any errors or
mourners guidance in the correct display and presenta- history and evolution of mourning shows us that. omissions but will print a correction in the
following issue if notification of such error is
tion of their efforts. sent by the appropriate deadline. Original
While the color black, prescribed rituals, the estab- manuscripts are welcomed by qualified
writers. We assume no responsibility for loss
lishment of mourning warehouses, and remembrance of unsolicited material.
jewelry played an important role in displayed mourning Maxine Carter-Lome, Publisher Copyright 2022
All rights reserved

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