Page 39 - joa-feb-23

Jewelry in the Era of Art Nouveau

by Sunseria Morgan, Jewelry Curator, RubyLane.com

merging like the first wildflower in spring Enamel is so convincing, intricately detailed, and lifelike that you
from a meadow of melting snow, slowly unfold- can imagine the petals beginning to wilt in the palm of your hand.
Eing its petals to unveil new life, the style of Art Plique-a-Jour enamel was made by filling empty
Nouveau bloomed and stood out in stunning con- window-like spaces in settings with enamel. The empty spaces
trast with the surrounding landscape. have no front or back and only the sides of the
Art Nouveau style was deeply influenced by setting hold the enamel in place. The effect is quite
the essence and delicate beauty of the natural impressive and resembles stained glass or gemstones
world and organic forms. Like the fleeting life of when the light filters through the enamel.
the flower, Art Nouveau captured our attention for Plique-à-jour Enamel & Chrysoprase Cabochons
a brief moment in time and grew and thrived between Materials and Gemstones
1890 through 1914. Cabochon cut gemstones were also often used instead of faceted
Artists and designers created a new style of 14k Gold Art Nouveau stones which gave the jewelry a softer and more whimsical appearance.
ornamental art, abandoning typical historical Locket set with Diamonds The subtle glow and glimmer of moonstones decorated
or classical subjects and themes. Art Nouveau and Rubies draping festoon necklaces. Large oval-shaped opals,
was not confined within the boundaries of embodying the earth and ocean with swirling
metals or the cuts and facets of gemstones. Jewelers were free to express blue-green flashes of color are set as the focal point
their creativity in new unique and imaginative designs. in evening rings.
Some of the finest jewelry was crafted during this time by Pearls with their luminous luster were also the
inspirational designers. René Jules Lalique, and Louis Comfort Tiffany, perfect choice for Art Nouveau jewelry. Pearls
who might be better known for their glass. However, both were talented could be incorporated into the design and
and successful jewelers. Alphonse Mucha is best known for his theatrical imitate a grape cluster or dangle from the end of a leaf
posters and was also a jewelry designer who collaborated with the like a dew drop ready to fall. Small seed pearls
French jeweler Georges Fouquet. Antique 14K Pearl were used to accentuate curved lines and define
Art dealer Siegfried Bing, who was fascinated by the new style of art, and Enamel Brooch by shapes such as crescent moons and clovers.
opened an art gallery appropriately named Maison de l’Art Nouveau Carter Gough
(“House of the New Art”) at 22 Rue de Provence in Paris on December
26th, 1895. The gallery specialized in modern art and sold Tiffany glass The End of an Era
and jewelry by Lalique. The gallery was very successful and ultimately Art Nouveau-style objects were labor-intensive and required skilled
popularized the term Art Nouveau, forever changing the world of art artisans to construct. The simple straight lines and geometric shapes of
and design. the developing Art Deco era were more economical and faster to
produce. By the end of the first World War, Europe was ready
for change and Art Nouveau faded out of fashion but has never
Characteristics of Art Nouveau Style been forgotten.
Leaves and vines that weave wind around gems or pearls. Even though Art Nouveau was only popular for a short period
Lilies, orchids, and irises in bloom. Cranes, herons, and swans of time, the significant contribution to the art and jewelry industry is
with their delicate long swooping necks. Insects were also everlasting and eternal, serving as an important transition at the turn of
frequently used in Art Nouveau jewelry. Butterflies and the century.
dragonflies with wings extended, fluttering in full flight. As a passionate collector myself of many things, old and new, my
Grasshopper and beetle brooches are alive with motion. jewelry collection is by far the most rewarding. Out of all the wonderful
Curved scrolling lines and asymmetrical designs jewels in my possession, perhaps one of my favorite pieces is a tiny
complimented the natural forms, providing the ideal frame single-leaf brooch with its coiled stem
and setting for the jewelry. Ethereal feminine faces or figures wrapped around the pin as if it was holding
14K Enamel Brooch surrounded by flowers and endless flowing locks and on in the cold autumn wind. Its rarity,
with Swans and Tulips tendrils of hair that appears to be gently blowing in the simplicity, realism, and seemingly endless
by Krementz soft breeze, it’s enough to make you swoon! life continues to charm me.

If you were not in love with Nouveau
Enamel Techniques already, you have now fallen into its My tiny treasure, 14k & Enamel by
Jewelers used a number of highly skilled enameling alluring dream-like fantasy of beauty, Krementz, actual size
techniques during the Art Nouveau era. mystery, and intrigue.
Layers of different color enamel were applied to Jewelry of the Art Nouveau era can easily be found in all price
bring depth to the flat metal surface. Blended shades of ranges. A fine example of Art Nouveau jewelry is certainly a must-
green and gold were added to the leaves. Iridescent have in every collection and is sure to become one of your most loved
enamels produced an eye-catching vibrant 14K Gold Enamel Flower and treasured.
velvety texture. Brooch by Whiteside & Blank All items pictured are available on RubyLane.com. To discover more
Art Nouveau jewelry at Rubylane.com, click here.
February 202 3 37