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by Kary Pardy


                                Ancient Art: Unraveling the Art of Knitting
                  nitting is a craft that is in the                                                        asked participants to complete a hat, a
                  middle of a revival. Creating                                                            pair of gloves or stockings, a garment,
            Kwarm hats, scarves, wraps,                                                                    and a knitted carpet.
            sweaters, and mittens is currently a                                                              Even though the mechanical
            fashionable pastime for people of all                                                          knitting machine was invented in
            ages, and skilled knitters can create art                                                      1589, the majority of knitwear was not
            with their complex stitches and colors.                                                        factory produced until steam-powered
            When you ask people today what                                                                 machines made bulk operations
            knitting is to them, you’re likely to get                                                      possible, and the divergence between
            answers like “it’s a soothing activity,”                                                       individual laborers and shops
            “something to do with my hands,” or                                                            increased even further – by the 19th
            “a way to create gifts for those I love.”                                                      century most knitwear was factory
            If you like knitting now and you are                                                           produced and hand-knitting became
            considering  it as a collecting interest,                                                      the realm of ladies of leisure who
            I’m here to tell you that knitting is                                                          picked up needlework crafts as a
            much more than a cathartic pastime.                                                            pastime, a more recognizable pattern
            It’s an innovation that has been                                                               in today’s world.
            around for thousands of years and
            remains largely unchanged. Knitwear
            is also a fascinating direction to take                                                        Collecting Knits
                                                                                                              Are you a knitter or does the
            your textile collection.                                                                       practice’s ancient history draw you in?
               First, let’s look at what knitting is
            and how it technically compares to its                                                         Fortunately, there are lots of collecting
                                                                                                           directions you can take. Whether you
            other cloth art sister, weaving. Knitting                                                      focus on tools (knitting needles, cases
            is the manipulation of a thread to form                                                        for knitting needles, knitting sheaths,
            loops and stitches that run together                                                           guards, yarn holders, skein winders,
            consecutively to make a cloth. Weaving                                                         scissors, and measurement tools, etc.) or
            involves interlacing two strands together   In a trade that was largely male in the Middle Ages, paintings of the   collect knitwear fashions through the
            to make a cloth. Though similar, we’re   Madonna knitting (particularly with an advanced, multi-needle round    years, there are lots of options for you
            going to focus on knitting and it’s    technique!) stand out and speak to the high value placed on the skill.    and the field is not heavily saturated.
            strength – knitting can be 3D.                The Buxtehude Altar, Master Bertram, ca. 1400    There’s much more to learn
                                                                    Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.
                                                                                                           and explore.
            History                                                              Let’s start with knitting tools and the most obvious, knitting nee-
               Knitting has its origins in Ancient Egypt and China, and amazingly,   dles. Early needles were called “wires” or “pins,” and while the function
            ancient examples are structurally unchanged from the knitting that we   was the same, they were simplistic compared to modern needles that
            do today. Anthropologists surmise that knitting was invented because   have evolved for comfort and ease. These metal pieces were cheaply
            of something that seems simple – a sock. More specifically, humans   made and can add a bit of history and folk appeal to your collection,
            needed a way to create a cloth that could wrap around feet, and do so   but won’t add much beauty. You will start to see finer knitting needle
            while accommodating different shapes and sizes. With knitting, you   designs during the Victorian era, when people, mainly middle to upper-
            could create something that surrounded the entire foot and stretched as   class women, could afford such luxuries. Keep an eye out for silver,
            needed, and thus the knit sock was born and we never looked back.    bone/ivory, whalebone, and tortoiseshell needles, sometimes with ster-
               Muslim craftsmen brought knitting to Europe in the 12th and 13th   ling accents or guards. These attractive options traded function for
            centuries where it appears it was held in high regard; several quality knit   beauty; they did not have the same fine gauge as steel wires and poor
            items were found in tombs and church treasuries across Spain. It spread   people knitting for a living continued to use the more agile option.
            to the rest of Europe with Christianity and was considered a holy
            enough craft that sometimes you can spot the Virgin Mary knitting in
            Middle Age paintings.                                                                        Knitwear was the primary fabric for sporting
               Mary was the last woman to be praised for knitting for a long time.                        activities in the 1920s, but with cheaper
            As knitting gained popularity in the 15th and 16th centuries, it took on                        alternatives such as factory-produced
            two sectors: peasant men and women knitting for an income or                                    sweatshirts and tracksuits gained traction,
            clothing for their families, or fine luxury knitting, which was strictly the                     knitwear transitioned to the realm of
                                                                                                             low impact, high-end sports whose
            purview of men. Knitting schools helped poor men break out of poverty,                           users could afford ‘fancier’ knit
            and knitting guilds offered aspiring knitters a reliable and in-demand                          garments. Knitwear also transitioned
            trade if they could withstand six years of training. Hopefuls spent three                       to smart casual clothing, which is where we
            years as apprentices and three as journeymen, ideally traveling to learn                       most commonly see it today.
            new patterns and techniques. The final exam lasted thirteen weeks and                                Courtesy of HoneyCombPatterns, Etsy.

            36               Journal of Antiques and Collectibles
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