Singer Sewing Turns 175

by Jessica Kosinski

Each month this year, this column is focusing on major milestone anniversaries. This month, we’re taking a peek at the history of I.M. Singer and Co. The company, which was founded by Isaac Merritt Singer in 1850, is better known to those who know a thing or two about sewing as just Singer, and it has produced some of the best sewing machines ever made. Isaac Singer received his first patent for a sewing machine in 1851, making it 175 years since he actually revolutionized the sewing process.

I knit and crochet, but I can’t sew a stitch to save my life. That was my grandmother’s hobby. When she passed away, I inherited her apartment and her three Singer sewing machines, which still sit in my dining room. I have clear memories of being a kid and seeing her making what I perceived as magical items that seemed to come together out of nothing on those old Singers. There were pajamas, pillows, and costumes galore. I think the thing I remember most fondly is the sound of one of her Singers whirring away as she worked. It’s an unmistakable noise that I still swear I hear in the middle of the night from time to time, even though she’s been gone for well over a decade. Let’s dive into some of the other amazing things about Singers…

Sewing Before Machines
Sewing is one of life’s earliest necessities and one of humanity’s earliest skills, but early humans definitely didn’t have the benefit of using Grandma’s Singers. Everything had to be done by hand, and it was slow going, to say the least. The earliest sewing was done with tough materials like needles made of bone. It was a chore, not a fun hobby. It took many generations
before hand sewing made that leap, and it only did so because available materials improved. Even so, right up until the 1800s, many sewing projects were done mainly out of necessity.
Today, sewing by hand is the easiest it has ever been. There are wide varieties of materials to pick from and patterns to follow. Yet, it’s still time-consuming. Most people have busy schedules, so there has definitely been a modern movement away from hand sewing. Most projects are much faster and easier to do on machines. However, even after the first sewing machines were invented, that wasn’t always the case.

Early Sewing Machines
French inventor Barthélemy Thimonnier is often credited with creating the first sewing machine capable of copying hand stitching practices in 1830. English inventor Thomas Saint designed a sewing machine for sewing canvas and leather and even patented the design in 1790, so some argue that he invented the sewing machine, but his design never transitioned from the paper patent pattern to a real working model. Both men based their designs on a particular method called the chain stitch, which is one of several stitches used today.

The next major leap was the invention of a machine that used the lock stitch by American Thomas Howe in the 1840s. That was a major improvement. The chain stitch used one continuous thread and worked similarly to crochet. As a crocheter myself, I can attest to the fact that chains easily unravel. Howe’s lock stitch used two different strands of thread that crossed and “locked” together. That meant even if one stitch got loose, they couldn’t all easily pop out and unravel.

Even with that advancement, early sewing machines still had a lot of problems. They were often large and awkward to use and move around. Some were also difficult to use at all or didn’t work consistently. Then there was the issue of material. Some machines were only designed to sew certain materials, such as leather.

Singer to the Rescue
Isaac Singer decided that machine sewing could and should be better. His 1851 model introduced a continuous feed system and a straight needle that were designed to make the stitching process easier, more consistent, and more reliable. Singer’s business partner, a lawyer named Edward Clark, also helped bring the machine to the masses. Together, they realized previous sewing machines were often too expensive for average people to own. The Singer model might have been the same, but Clark had a solution. He decided to offer installment payments as a purchase option, and sales exploded. Not long after that, millions of homes had sewing machines.

The Singer Empire
Singer and Clark were ahead of their time in many ways. Their business sense was absolutely amazing, to the point that they built their business into a globally recognized brand. Today, we take global brands for granted, but Singer and Clark were operating well before the days of home computers and cellphones. The fact that they went global in the days before high-speed communications technology was amazing.

Soon, they had sales agents and Singer factories all over the world. One of their most iconic buildings was the Singer Building in New York City. It stood as a major landmark in the city from 1908 until it was demolished in 1968. At one point, it was the world’s tallest building.

One reason for the global reach of Singer is that their machines were incredibly reliable and durable. In fact, many of those older models can still be found in fully working condition today, which says a lot about the craftsmanship that went into making them. Also, many of them were and still are beautiful. They were often built into wooden cabinets that made great display pieces. That way a family could use one when needed, but it could also be tucked away neatly and still enjoyed as part of a home’s décor.

How Singer Changed Daily Life for Women
In the early days of Singer, sewing was women’s work, so naturally having reliable sewing machines changed daily life for women. Although, it didn’t quite do so in the way you might think. At first, it was a real time saver. Big sewing jobs were much easier and faster. That meant women had more free time for other tasks.

What many people don’t realize is that home sewing machines also opened up business opportunities for women. Many offered to do sewing projects for friends and neighbors. Some even started up small side businesses like dressmaking.

Of course, Singer’s reliable sewing machines also led to more time for creativity. As fashion trends changed and more women experimented with their sewing machines, designs got more elaborate. A lot of women actually found themselves spending more time sewing, not less. It was just a matter of sewing more or better clothes than they used to in the same given amount of time.

Top Singer Sewing Machine Models
Singer sewing machines are a lot like fingerprints or snowflakes.

No two models were exactly the same. Some were definitely better than others and are certainly more eye-catching for collectors to this day. Looks, ease of use, general features, and bonus “bells and whistles” all played a role in their popularity back then and in which ones are still popular today.

One such popular model is the Singer Featherweight 221. It originally came out in the 1930s. As the name suggests, its lightweight construction made it popular back then. People could easily carry it wherever they needed to do some sewing. Many modern sewing machine users still enjoy using it today because it has great precision and is easy to use. It’s especially popular among crafters who like to do quilting.

Another good Singer sewing machine to add to a collection is the Model 66. If you want to start a whole collection of sewing machines or just find one for practical use, the 66 is a great choice. Its metal construction makes it a little heavy, but it also means it was built to last. Many 66 machines still work today and have barely needed any maintenance. Also, there are a lot of them available since so many were produced. Yet, if you have an eye for collecting, you’ll also like the 66 because you can find different variations of it. The “red eye” and “sphinx” decals are two of the most popular 66 designs. But it also came with other decals like the “filigree” and “lotus,” as well as in plain black.

A third good option is the Singer Model 15. The Singer Model 15 is really a group of machines with extra numbers indicating each different model variation. For example, the 15-30 was a treadle (foot pedal) machine, but the 15-88 and 15-90 were electric models. Then there was the 15-91, which had a gear-driven motor known as a “potted motor,” making it one of the quieter sewing machines for its time.

Tips for Collecting Singer Sewing Machines Today
After 175 years and across multiple global factories, you can imagine the number of Singer sewing machines available today. That makes collecting them both easy and difficult. It’s easy because many are available, but it’s difficult because you’ll be potentially dealing with a lot of different choices, many variations in condition, and a lot of reproductions, poor restorations, and the like.

A good first step is to decide which Singer machines you want to collect and do some research on them. For example, the treadle machines with built-in cabinets might be of interest to you. On the other hand, you might prefer electric machines that take up less space.

In terms of value, pristine condition doesn’t always equal higher cost. Sewing machines are a lot like books because they tell a story. As I said earlier, I have vivid memories of my grandmother’s Singers whirring away in the dining room. The wear her machines and others like them show is indicative of their rich history. Some machines have either somehow never been used or they have been restored to look perfect, which takes the life out of them for some collectors.

Another thing to consider is true sewing machine collectors, whether they focus specifically on Singer or not, often look for extra bonus bits to add value. Machines that come with manuals, cases, and attachments are almost always worth more than equal machines that are missing those extras.

A Final Word About Restoration
Should you look for a restored Singer or one in original condition with all its signs of age and use? It sounds like a simple question, but it has no right or wrong answer. It really depends on your preference. If you plan to display the machine in your home and show it off, you might want a more original one with some stories to tell, or you might want one that looks brand new and pristine. Similarly, if you plan to use the machine, you might prefer it to have all the quirks of one used by someone else in the past, or you might want it to function as well as the day it was produced. The most important thing is to identify your own preferences before you go looking for your own perfect version of a Singer sewing machine.

Regardless of whether you choose a restored model or not, you can take pride in knowing you’ll be collecting a huge piece of American and global history when you purchase a Singer. Singer machines have shaped our lives in more ways than most of us will ever know.

That’s why, despite my own personal lack of sewing capabilities, I’m proud to own three of them.

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Jessica Kosinski has been a freelance researcher and writer since 2001. She developed a passion for pre-1990s television and films as a child and she has never grown out of it. Recently, she turned that passion into a retro TV and film blog. Follow along with her at https://medium.com/@jkos_writing, as she dives deep into the characters, actors, quirks, and trivia that brought us some of the greatest films and shows in TV history and also discusses some of the more obscure films and shows most of us may have forgotten.