I Scream, You Scream, We All Scream! The Sweet History of Ice Cream

Before cones and coolers, ice cream had humble (and chilly) beginnings. As early as 2000 B.C., the Chinese were mixing snow with milk and rice to create the first frozen treats. These ideas spread through Persia and Ancient Rome, where emperors reportedly enjoyed snow and fruit juices chilled with mountain ice. During Nero’s reign in the 1st century A.D., runners carried snow from the Alps to Roman kitchens so desserts could be chilled for the imperial table.

In Renaissance Italy, the art of frozen desserts took a significant leap forward. Bernardo Buontalenti introduced gelato to the Medici court in the 16th century, blending milk, honey, and flavorings into luxurious creations. His contributions are often credited as the forerunners of modern ice cream, long before freezers, and early methods that involved snow and saltpeter to reduce temperature, allowing sweetened rice or dairy mixtures to freeze. This inventive process laid the groundwork for centuries of culinary experimentation and indulgence.

By the 17th century, French chefs were crafting “iced creams” for aristocratic banquets, and by the 18th century, recipes had crossed the Channel into English cookbooks. These early European variations often included ingredients like orange flower water, ambergris, or even Parmesan cheese – a far cry from the chocolate swirls and cookie crumbles we know today.

Ice cream made its American debut in 1744 at a Maryland dinner party attended by William Black, a Scottish colonist who later described the icy delicacy in a letter. By 1790, George Washington reportedly spent over $200 on ice cream in one summer alone – a sizable expense that hints at the dessert’s elite status. In those days, only the wealthiest had the ice houses and the imported ingredients required to serve ice cream year-round.

Thomas Jefferson’s handwritten recipe for vanilla ice cream, inspired by his travels in France, is preserved in the Library of Congress. It called for egg yolks, heavy cream, and sugar – a custard base that remains a gold standard for American-style ice cream. Jefferson served the dessert at Monticello and even at presidential dinners, introducing guests to a taste of refined European cuisine.

Throughout the early 1800s, ice cream was considered a special treat for high society. Ice houses, natural ice harvesting, and silver serving dishes added to its prestige. Ice cream parlors began appearing in urban centers such as Philadelphia and New York, offering an early glimpse into the social culture of dessert consumption.

In 1843, a pivotal shift occurred when New England housewife, Nancy Johnson, revolutionized home dessert-making. She patented the hand-cranked ice cream freezer, a device with an inner container, a rotating dasher, and an insulated bucket filled with salt and ice. This simple yet brilliant invention allowed anyone to make smooth, creamy ice cream at home.

Although Johnson sold her patent for just $200, her design endured for generations. Companies like White Mountain and Dover began mass-producing these freezers, which became fixtures in American kitchens and picnic baskets. The accessibility of homemade ice cream led to the rise of community ice cream socials, which were especially popular during the Victorian era. These gatherings, held in churchyards, parlor rooms, and garden groves, were as much about companionship as they were about dessert.

Collectors today eagerly seek out early examples of the Johnson-style hand-cranked freezers, particularly those with wooden tubs, cast iron hardware, and decorative patents stamped into the crank housing. Depending on condition and age, these pieces can fetch hundreds of dollars at antique shops and auctions.

Jacob Fussell, a milk dealer from Baltimore, is often called the father of the American ice cream industry. In 1851, he opened the nation’s first commercial ice cream factory, capitalizing on surplus cream from Pennsylvania dairy farms. His business success demonstrated that ice cream could be mass-produced, stored, and sold affordably to the growing middle class.

Later innovations, such as Carl von Linde’s development of mechanical refrigeration in the late 19th century forever changed the cold storage game. Ice harvesting was no longer necessary. Ice cream production expanded rapidly, with regional factories emerging across the country, each putting their spin on flavor, style, and branding.

By the early 20th century, brands like Borden, Dolly Madison, and Hood were household names. These companies’ vintage containers and advertising memorabilia, including metal tins, paper cartons, and branded scoopers, are now prized collectibles. Colorful lithographed signs, often depicting cheerful children and heaping cones, adorn walls in vintage diners and collector displays alike.

During World War II, ice cream played an unexpected role in military morale. The U.S. Armed Forces became the world’s largest producer of ice cream, serving it aboard aircraft carriers, at base camps, and in field kitchens. It was considered a taste of home – a simple luxury in a world turned upside down.

In fact, the Navy commissioned a floating ice cream barge with a $1 million price tag, capable of producing ten gallons every seven minutes. This effort speaks volumes to ice cream’s cultural weight as more than just dessert – it was sustenance for the soul.

Returning veterans in the postwar era brought a deep nostalgia for ice cream. This sentiment fueled the rise of soda fountains and ice cream parlors throughout the 1940s and ‘50s. It was a golden age for dairy-based confections, driven by booming consumerism and American optimism.

According to most historians, the ice cream sundae originated in the 1880s as a clever workaround to blue laws that forbade soda sales on Sundays. Rather than miss out on weekend profits, enterprising vendors substituted soda water with sweet syrups and fruit toppings. The result was an indulgent dessert that soon became a national favorite for rich and poor alike.

At the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis, an accidental shortage of serving dishes led a vendor to roll a waffle into a cone – a fortuitous invention that reshaped the ice cream industry forever. The cone, light and portable, offered convenience and novelty. Waffle, cake, and sugar cones became staples of ice cream shops everywhere.

The 1950s ushered in the era of branded novelty treats: Popsicles, Drumsticks, Choco Tacos, and ice cream sandwiches filled grocery freezer aisles. Each had their own collectible ephemera, from paper wrappers to wooden sticks with prize codes. Retro packaging from this era is a sweet spot for collectors today.

Ice cream collectibles span a broad spectrum: from tin advertising signs and neon parlor lights to vintage scoops, molds, cartons, and promotional items. Some of the most coveted items include:

• Ice cream scoops with bakelite or celluloid handles, often patented in the early 20th century with special shapes or added features related to ease of use;

• Porcelain or heavy glass sundae dishes, many with pressed glass patterns or etched logos;

• Ice cream molds, particularly those shaped like fruits, flowers, or patriotic figures that were used in Victorian-era kitchens;

• Promotional items include branded spoons, hats, recipe booklets, and freezer thermometers;

• Vintage signage, from hand-painted wooden boards to mid-century die-cut tin and cardboard standees.

Even paper goods have found a second life: napkins with embossed logos, menus from long-closed soda fountains, and sheet music for ice cream-themed jingles all hold value for collectors.

Online auction platforms have amplified interest in these items, with well-preserved pieces often commanding premium prices. A 1920s White Mountain freezer in working condition can sell for over $500, while a 1950s Sealtest sign might bring $200-$300.

As ice cream culture grew in the United States, its influence spread globally. In Japan, mochi ice cream melds chewy rice flour with creamy centers. In India, kulfi is made with reduced milk and infused with saffron, cardamom, or pistachio. Italy continues to perfect gelato, while Argentina is known for helado topped with dulce de leche.

Meanwhile, the craft movement has brought new life to American freezers. Artisanal shops now serve exotic flavors like lavender honey, Thai basil, and bourbon peach. Vegan and dairy-free options continue to expand the reach of ice cream without sacrificing tradition.

The global ice cream industry is projected to surpass $109 billion in 2025. From high-end gelaterias to corner gas stations, ice cream remains one of the world’s most beloved indulgences.

All those signs featuring a classic ice cream cone or a sundae in a bowl would direct drivers and vacationers to ice cream shops and stops wherever it was sold. The Borden Ice Cream cow, a local creamery sign, and even the menu off an ice cream truck (or the truck itself!) are all outdoor symbols of the treats for sale. There is even a photograph in the Met Museum of a hand-made metal ice cream cone.

Ice cream advertising began as early as the 1700s, when it first appeared in newspapers to promote businesses offering ice cream. And, just like soft drinks, young women were often featured in advertising for ice cream as the Victorian Age promoted Ice Cream Socials and other events featuring frozen treats.

In a world that changes by the second, perhaps ice cream’s enduring sweetness is why we all still scream for ice cream.

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