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market price for weight online. Start there and assume an increase for Other Stones
well-known makers. Concerned your piece might be plated? Gold plat- Gemstones are in some ways even more
ed items will commonly be marked with GP (gold plated), GEP (gold complicated. Use your gut and common
electroplated), RGP (rolled gold plate), or HGE and HGP (heavy gold sense again, and after that, look at them
electroplate). Silver-plated pieces are commonly marked with EPNS or closely. True gemstones will have imperfec-
EP (electroplated, or electroplated nickel silver). tions caused by nature; fakes will be pristine
and shiny. The best bet with gemstones, though, is to
Shiny Stones take them to a professional if they pass the common sense test.
Common sense is key when we
consider precious stones. Is it likely Pearls
that a random ring in a costume Pearls are formed over time when an organic invader burrows deep
jewelry box has a real diamond? Not into the soft tissues of a mollusk. The mollusk then coats the intruder
really. Your grandmother passed down a with many layers of natural minerals and proteins, referred to as nacre
brooch with a blue stone the size of a grape. (Nay-Ker). This is what gives pearls their unique appearance, beautiful
For most people, that’s probably not a real luster, and color. According to the American Gem Society, most of the
sapphire. But if faced with these items, we still have a ocean’s natural pearls have already been harvested by pearl divers.
few tricks up our sleeves. Today, natural pearls are extremely rare, so this process is re-created by
Let’s start with diamonds. If you are examining a loose stone, try the oyster farmers who make cultured pearls.
water or the fog test. Diamonds are dense and if you drop one into The factors involved in choosing a quality pearl include color, luster,
water, it will sink. If it floats, you’ve and the shape of the pearl. Freshwater pearls offer a wider diversity of
got a fake. Similarly, try breathing on sizes, shapes, and colors than any other type of pearl. That’s why they
the diamond and fogging it up.
Diamonds are effective at dispersing Archeologists have discovered
heat; the fog should clear up quickly. what they claim is the world’s
If it takes several seconds, you’re out oldest natural pearl on
of luck. If the diamond is mounted, Marawah Island, off the coast
check how it’s mounted. Real dia- of Abu Dhabi. The pearl dates
monds would have strong settings, back 8,000 years to the
likely made of high-quality metal. Neolithic period – the last
stage of the Stone Age.
You can also invest in an electronic It was found in a layer at a
diamond tester, a gadget that has Neolithic site that dates to
saved many a thrift shop owner. 5800 B.C. to 5600 B.C.
They work by measuring how well “The presence of pearls at
the diamond conducts heat or elec- archeological sites is evidence
tricity and are fairly reliable once you that the pearl trade existed
get the hang of using them. from at least as far back as the
Some of the best tools, however, Neolithic period,” said Abdulla
are a loop and knowledge of what to Khalfan Al-Kaabi, the director
look for and what makes a diamond of the archeological survey.
special. Diamonds are graded for are such a popular choice for fancy designer jewelry as opposed to the
their carat, color, clarity, and cut. classic round pearl. A good way to tell if your pearls are real is to rub
Jewelers will measure carats with spe- them across your teeth – if it is coarse, it is most likely real. No two
cial scales or size gauges, but you pearls are exactly the same shape and size, and making a graduated in
can’t price a diamond on size alone. size set of pearls for a necklace takes a sharp eye and a high-end caliper.
Some say that the cut of a diamond
is most important because it is what
really determines the diamond’s
sparkle. Next comes color: the less
color, the higher the grade. Clarity
refers to any imperfections that
may be in the stone. This is least crit-
ical because while it will reduce the
price, some imperfections are not Ask for Help
visible with the naked eye and won’t An accredited jewelry appraiser will have taken several courses on all
dampen your enjoyment of your facets of jewelry evaluation and will have the necessary tools to best
stone. When evaluating diamonds, examine all of your valuable pieces. While we can learn a lot from a
first do your best to determine if they basic inspection and a little science, it’s nowhere near the level of
are real and worth your time, then precision you’ll get by calling in the big guns. Find a list accredited
take them to a professional. jewelry appraisers through the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).
Visit www.Gia.edu or www.925-1000.com

26 Journal of Antiques and Collectibles