Page 26 - JOA 12-20

By 1936, Eisenberg & Sons was manufacturing a stand-alone
jewelry line and its main jewelry supplier was now Fallon & Kappel.
The early pieces were made of pot metal and were mostly dress or fur
clips. In 1940, the jewelry manufacturing was spun off as its own
division – Eisenberg Jewelry, Inc. At Christmas, 1941, it was
named an “advertiser’s choice” for a spread in Vogue magazine.
That same year, 1941, ads began promoting
“Eisenberg Ice,” a term coined by Sam Eisenberg in
reference to the gangster use of the word “ice” for
diamonds. The phrase caught on with buyers, who
instantly caught the connection between Eisenberg
jewelry and the diamond-like sparkle and superb luster of
the high-quality rhinestones and crystals (especially, as
noted, Swarovski).

ENTERING THE
WORLD WAR II YEARS

In the 1940s, Ruth Kamke was named
Fallon & Kappel’s sole in-house jewelry designer,
and Eisenberg loved to market her floral
creations. Whether it was their clear rhinestones, vibrant Eisenberg Originals
sterling vermeil
colored stones, or Swarovski crystals, Kamke jewelry was always cleaning woman
the top-quality workmanship, with unique and imaginative with broom fur clip
designs. The demand was great, especially for the colorful pieces. with green, black
During World War II, supplies were becoming strained. and red enamel
Eisenberg Originals sterling The pot metal used in the jewelry was restricted to be used in and pave detailing,
vermeil figural cleaning the war effort, and high-quality imported stones were mid-1940s.
woman with bucket and becoming less available. Oddly enough, in 1943, Sold for $1,188
brush figural pin clip with sterling had replaced pot metal.
carved details, accented with
red enamel and rhinestones, By the mid-1950s, Eisenberg’s days as a
mid-1940s. Sold for $1,500 powerhouse in the costume jewelry business
had come to a close. The Eisenberg family
merged with Berns-Friedman in 1977,
reproducing some classic Eisenberg pieces. Unfortunately, Berns-Friedman
went out of business in 2011. Eisenberg Originals gold-plated
Sinbad figural fur clip with
turbaned head with pave and enamel
THE CONNOISSEUR detailing and multi-colored teardrop
framed rhinestone dangles, circa 1940.
Sharon Schwartz attended Drexel Sold for $1,250
University in the 1960s, where she
took courses in sewing, art, and design.
This led to an interest in fashion
and design, which defined the
early portion of her career. “In
high school, my sewing teacher
impressed upon me ideas regarding
design and finery,” she said. “I entered
sewing and design contests and
taught sewing. I also made dresses.”
Later, in the 1980s, she began going
to antique shops and shows, always with an eye
on the costume and fine jewelry. That led to her
becoming a dealer, under the company name Of
Times Gone By. She worked the shows circuit but
never had a brick-and-mortar store. “I was on
Ruby Lane for years and did very well,” she said.
Schwartz and her husband live in Cherry Hill,
New Jersey, and Boca Raton, Florida.

All jewelry images courtesy Ripley Auctions

Ken Hall is a freelance writer living in
Atlanta, Georgia. He is the author of the
monthly column, “Gavels ‘n’ Paddles.”

Eisenberg Originals sterling vermeil flying fish
Eisenberg Originals sterling ribbon brooch with layered scales with hints of black
dancer with carved details, enamel and enameling, accented with ruby rhinestones and
pave, mid-1940s. Sold for $1,250 pave details, mid-1940s. Sold for $1,250

24 Journal of Antiques and Collectibles