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their journey with Italian carved shell cameos are not the same or made from the
cameo necklaces, rings, and earrings, or the same materials, so before you buy a cameo
even more highly coveted lava take a closer look to know what you are
stone cameos, carved out of the earthy buying besides a beautiful piece of jewelry
colored lava from the base of Mt. Vesuvius. and art.
The shell cameo industry in Italy increased
in size to meet tourist demand. Even Color is the Key
today, a visit to the Ruins of Pompeii The carnelian shell is the shell most
includes a side trip to Naples to tour and frequently used for cameo carving. In
shop the cameo factories still there after color, carnelian shells are a low-intensity
all these centuries. peach or orange color, bringing out a
Today, antique cameos are admired contrast between foreground and back-
and valued for their craftsmanship, ground colors.
materials, setting, and of course, beauty. The sardonyx shell has a thick outer
These treasures can be found at antique wall and a dark brown interior, and when
shops and shows, vintage jewelry dealers, carved it can resemble marble. Cameos
estate sales, and online auctions, mostly in carved in sardonyx shells are distinctive in
the $50 to $250 price range. color with a dark brown background and a
In part, cameos are de-valued because white foreground; frequently costing
they do not appeal to young people or more because of the shells’ rarity.
women, in general, today as a form of Gorgeous Antique Lava Cameos: Hera, probably made for the Cameos carved in mother-of-pearl
wearable jewelry. The cameo collectors of tourist trade, Victorian/Edwardian. Brits and Americans on produce a cameo of an opalescent,
the 19th century have passed on their their Grand Tour typically purchased these as souvenirs bluish-gray color. These cameos are best
souvenir cameos or items from their set in silver.
personal jewelry collection to their children, and their children’s Agate cameos are carved ultrasonically. Its hardness allows for greater
children, who today value their cameo jewelry for its family connec- detail than the softer shell. Blue or green in color, these cameos come
tions but have little interest, sadly, in collecting more or wearing from Germany and have a more modern look despite the fact that agate
what they have. There is, though, a growing has been used for cameos for centuries.
interest among vintage buyers and Glass cameos are formed by pouring
collectors for cameos from the 40s, 50s, and molten glass into an intaglio mold, which
60s, but mostly in the $50 or lower range. was typically made of clay. Vintage glass
Recently, contemporary fashion and jewelry cameos can be found in stunning black glass
designers have been breathing life into a and sparkling crystal, as well as rich shades
new, modern representation of cameo of amber and amethyst.
jewelry, seen in collections from esteemed Cameos made from lava are muddy-
designers like Dolce & Gabbana, and in colored in appearance and known for their
brooches, bracelets, and other artistic forms. “biscuit porcelain” luster. The lava rock
In 2018, Dolce & Gabbana introduced carvings from the Mt. Vesuvius region range
its Alta Gioielleria collection: thirty-two in color from off-white or yellowish to
one-of-a-kind brooches, each handcrafted in varying shades of gray, when it has been
coral, gold, and diamonds, their images and dyed any number of deeper colors. Cameos
artistry an homage to the craft of traditional of this type are easily identified both for the
cameo making. material they are carved from and the period
There is a niche market among specialty when they were made.
collectors for antique cameo pieces, especially
those with provenance or that depict Is It Real or Fake?
unique subjects, such as images of men and The Dolce & Gabbana Alta Gioielleria collection Due to the enduring popularity of
historical figures. A late 18th/ early 19th includes 32 unique pieces.Dolce & Gabbana Alta Gioielleria cameos, there are more realistic imitations
century hardstone cameo brooch designed coral, gold, and diamond brooches nowadays than ever before. It can be
and carved by Nicolo Morelli for Caroline difficult to know when a cameo is an
Bonaparte, Napoleon Bonaparte’s younger sister, sold for a record price authentic antique piece or a modern-day imitation, but here are a few
of $67,000 at Bonhams auction in 2015. Here, the history attached to things to consider:
this beautiful image, and an identified maker, all contributed to this 1. Know which materials are most authentic. Authentic carved
record-breaking price. cameos can be made of shell or natural stone, while
authentically painted cameos are typically made from
porcelain. As a general rule, any carved cameo made
Cameo Materials
Authentic carved cameos are made from natural from a natural material can be considered authentic.
materials, such as shell, agate, onyx, ivory, coral, moth- Some of the materials used include shell, agate, car-
er-of-pearl, lava, glass, and various gemstones. nelian, onyx, ivory, lava, coral, jet, bone, mother of
Authentically painted cameos are typically made from pearl, and various gemstones. A cameo is referred to as
porcelain. These carvings are typically set in either gold being non-authentic or fake if it has been made with
or silver. plastic or resin.
Glass and hardstone were the oldest materials to be 2. Inspect the cameo for cracks. Hold your cameo up
used in the making of cameos, with shell introduced as to the light. Regardless of the material and the age,
a relief backdrop for cameos during the Renaissance, in you should see no chips or cracks in the foundation
the 15th and 16th centuries, and later popularized by material. Soft plastics chip easier than shell, porcelain,
Queen Victoria of England. and stone do; however, hard resins are fairly chip-
All resistant. This speaks more to the cameo's value
The profile of a striking classical beauty is masterfully rather than its authenticity. A chipped cameo might be
hand-carved in white onyx, highlighted by a subtle black
aura, in this exquisite Edwardian pendant necklace real, but these signs of damage will cause its market
photo: Lang Antiques value to decline.

20 Journal of Antiques and Collectibles