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aimed at “Parlor People” Shellwork
like Harper's Bazaar Among the more unusual parlor
began including tutorials crafts was shellwork, the art of
on how to apply the creating structures or designs with
sewing arts to increasing- seashells. Shells of different sizes and
ly fanciful designs. colors were glued to cheap boxes as a
decorative layer or embellishment.
Parlor Trends More ambitious projects included
creating elaborate “bouquets” of
Berlin Woolwork shells that resembled floral arrange-
One particular ments. These delicate items are
embroidery trend was harder to find today but worth
Berlin woolwork. Named searching for.
“Fern Fever” carried over from tradi-
for its city of origin, tional artwork to adornment on items
Berlin woolwork was Ferns
A Berlin woolwork pattern. Photo: Cooper Hewitt like this Victorian bisquit jar.
based on hand-painted Along with shells, Victorians
cross-stitch patterns that later became colored squares printed on found themselves preoccupied with making botanical art. “Pterido-
cheap paper. Amateurs could purchase packages with designs and mania” (“Fern Fever”) became a particular trend, with fern fronds
brightly hued wool, making these an early variation of the DIY kits painted or stenciled onto ceramics or pasted into albums for the
popular today. curiosity and delight of the collector.
By the mid-1800s, there were over 14,000
available designs, creating the impression of orig- Feathers
inality even within a deeply commercial society. Feathers also fascinated the Victorians.
Popular subjects included flowers, animals, Featherwork actually is a far older and culturally -
and landscapes. Also characteristic were dark diverse practice, extending back to the Incas and
backgrounds, making the colorful stitches pop. Aztecs who incorporated feathers into their ritual
The typical Victorian parlor, already bursting garments. Victorian featherwork was a
at the seams with bric-a-brac, could now boast the different beast altogether. While some Victorians
handiwork of its mistress on nearly every conceiv- enjoyed studying and collecting feathers from
able surface – from chairs to shoes. Collecting exotic birds, most people got their feathers from a
Berlin woolwork can be a pricey endeavor, espe- shop. If you were from a wealthier family with
cially since the nicest specimens have already been property in the countryside, feathers could be
removed from furnishings and specially framed. obtained from the game hunted that very day.
Recent examples at auction went for up to $500, The sharp, pointed ends of feathers made them
but the keen-eyed hunter can likely spot a good ideal to pierce through rough fabric to create love-
woolwork “painting” at any antique shop. ly pictorial arrangements for frames or fire
screens. Feathers could also be sewn onto bonnets
Hairwork or articles of clothing for a nice effect. Plain feath-
Hairwork wreaths became popular after 1850, ers could be dyed in different colors, while more
and they expressed multiple meanings. Women lavish specimens like ostrich or peacock reflected
The back parlor of an 1891
made small gifts, such as watch fobs, for husbands Queen Anne Victorian home the status of the wearer.
to wear while out; friends exchanged braided
designs as a gesture of sincerity; and families in mourning might create China Painting
accessories out of their loved one’s hair as a commemorative ornament. To China painting was another popular and acceptable parlor craft since
make the wreaths, which were quite often elaborately detailed, hair was it resembled other “parlor crafts” such as watercolor and glass painting.
mounted onto wire frames and then looped around to create shapes like a Eastern Asia dominated the decorative arts of the Victorian age, arising
leaf or flower petal. The finished product would be preserved by placing from a preoccupation with the peoples, cultures, and traditions of places
it into a locket or shadowbox. like China and Japan. While this frequently veered into misappropriation,

Victorian antique woven hair cross Rice shell work basket with This print is a reproduction of a page from F. G. Heath’s
on gold fill watch chain. photo: RubyLane rice shell flowers ca. 1855. The Fern Portfolio, published in 1885

14 Journal of Antiques and Collectibles