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“Then there is the cutting the technical art instruction its School of Cutting diffuses through all
school, which is divided into three tailordom.” Kind words from The Tailor, indeed!
departments, each under competent
instructors. There are two for men’s Final Stitches
systems and the other is for ladies’ Without any set reference materials on the Mitchell Companies to
tailoring. One of the men’s systems present a clear story, there are bits and pieces of its story scattered
is called the Madison, and the within the stories of surviving publications and books that caught the
other is the Standard. One is a long eye of this writer. Here are just a few.
measure and the one I named last a • In advertisements in its publications, the Mitchell School of
short measure system. I do not think Garment Cutting recommended the “dull season after the holidays” as
it makes any difference which one is the best time to enroll in one of their courses.
studied, both are the best known • Making it easier for students to attend its school, Mitchell helped
and both give excellent results. its students with everything from securing lodging to buying scissors
“… With each man in the estab- and the like.
lishment a well-paid specialist, and • The Cutting course was
with everything at his command taught using what we consider
that mechanical ingenuity can today “independent study.” The
supply to facilitate business—and student could start the course at
Illustration of “Standard” coat pattern
in the Journal, Nov. 1912 this is typically American—can you any time and an experienced
wonder that the Mitchell fashions, tailor working in the trade would
etc., and the products of the United States are obtaining such a hold in teach the student 1:1 at a pace
Europe and elsewhere?” suited to the student. There were
These and other examples dropping not-so-hidden hints to limits regarding the total number
would-be students and locations, alike, are scattered time and time of weeks a student could attend
again across any and every item published by Mitchell. to complete the course.
• While attending the school,
Ah, Paris, as told to Mitchell by The Tailor there were also opportunities for
Perhaps one of the most interesting self-proclamations made by students to tour the Mitchell
Mitchell was in the August 1901 pages of The Sartorial Art Journal. facilities, network with others in
The “story” of a gentleman attending the 1889 Paris Exposition. the business, and even secure
This unnamed source (“The Tailor”) expounded upon the many employment upon completing
Jno. J. Mitchell Publishers prints given out to visitors at the Merchant their studies, often within the
Tailors of New York display. The Tailor seemed to infer these Mitchell organization as it
publications and printed cards, along with a free one-day course of would cherry-pick the best of its
instruction in tailoring given on Mitchell Standard techniques, led to graduates to work as a tailor and
awards being given to the Merchant Tailors of New York for their sometimes as an instructor. American Fashion illustration card
overall presentation. • For the turn-of-the-century ca. December, 1882
The exhibit featured 21 garments contributed by many of the best tailor, another marketing tool offered for purchase were the “Mitchell
tailors from larger cities in the U.S. A painting formed the background Postcards for Advertising or Business Correspondence.” These cards
with mirrors placed so viewers could see the garments from all sides. featured room for addressing them to your clientele, space for a person-
“That the United States should make such an exhibit in Paris did not alized note, and a drawing of the very latest offerings from the business.
seem so extraordinary after the installation was seen.” While research For just $5, the business would receive 500 postcards ready to be filled
into the specifics of who actually contributed what would require a in and sent out – or pay just $7.50 for 1,000. They were “Made in 12
greater amount of investigation, the hand of the Mitchell company as styles, including sacks, cutaways, frocks, overcoats, Norfolks, dress
an influencer is not out of the question. suits, etc. Sold separately or assorted. … Just the thing for sending out
There was, indeed, an award given. notices of try-on, etc.” Who could resist?
According to the Report of the Commissioner- American Tailor and Cutter illustration, • Books published by Mitchell included The
general at the Exhibition, “The exhibit of the November, 1893 New Standard Coat System, Works on Cutting, New
Merchant Tailors’ National Exchange of the Standard Trousers and Breeches Systems, Work on
United States of America was granted a gold Designing and Pattern-Making of Ladies’ Tailor-
medal, which was the highest award given to Made Garments, and the New Standard Coat
tailoring work.” and Vest Systems. Regarding the “New Standard,”
Among the other claims from The Tailor the Company stated that “It is thoroughly and
shared in the August 1901 issue of American radically new.”
Tailor and Cutter: • When speaking to how to tailor men’s riding
“The sartorial supremacy of the world has breeches, the Mitchell System stated that “the
ceased to be a disputable question. There are reason that the openness, or leg spread, is not
two unmistakable proofs that it belongs to this increased for large men, and decreased for small
country. These are the award of the gold medal ones, is that for both the spread is adapted to the
to the Merchant Tailors’ National Exchange, by diameter of the body of the horse from side to
the recent Paris Exposition, for the superiority side, not to the natural spread of the wearer’s
over all others of the garments the exchange legs.” Imagine how many pair of breeches were
exhibited at the exposition, and the publications, tailor-made for the rider with a full barn.
standing, influence, and work of The John J. Thanks to the many opportunities given to
Mitchell Co., of New York. support the tailors of the 19th and early 20th
“… To the John J. Mitchell Co., the sartorial centuries, they were able to become successful
world is indebted for the finest illustrations of purveyors of services to American Gentlemen
fashions it has ever known: for the most logical, with clothing to represent their class, influence,
comprehensive, and practical period expositions and personal style – as directed by the Jno. J.
of the ethics of dress, and last, but not least, as it Mitchell Companies.
is fundamental, for the unmatched excellence of

20 Journal of Antiques and Collectibles