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was called by a friend who collects antique anything that just Company started in business
absolutely drips history. He collects anything he likes and has very in 1907 and is still selling furs
Ieclectic tastes. He always surprises me with various items he has today in Des Moines Iowa. I
purchased throughout the years. In this specific conversation, I asked if can believe that a store would
he had anything he wanted me to look at. I received pictures of an early have displayed this in a win-
fur trade era coat and a military hat. Paraphrasing our conversation dow, but cannot consider this
and cutting to the chase, this is basically what he wanted to know about story in valuing this item
his items. without provenance. If I were
to see this bearskin coat in this
Hi David – I have two items that I would like to know anything you can condition for sale in a historic
tell me about them. I purchased this buffalo skin coat from a man in Illinois auction in its present condi-
who stated it was displayed in a store window in South Dakota. Is this a buf- tion, I would expect to pay
falo skin coat? The other piece I have is a Pith helmet I purchased at an $550/$700+.
antique shop because it was unusual. Is it a military cadet hat? The Helmet you have is a
More questions I have are: model 1881 U.S. Infantry
Are they genuine? officer’s dress Pith helmet.
Who would have worn them? This helmet would be worn for
What time period were they fashionable to wear? parade and dress occasions as
How much are they worth? well as for Officers in the field of duty. The White color was used in
As usual, thank you – tropical warm climates as the white reflected the Sun. Because of this
DS in Indiana reason, the white-style helmet was used extensively in the southwestern
military campaigns of the 1880s, Cuba during the Spanish-American
DS you never cease to amaze me War (1898) thru the Philippine insurrection (1899-1901).
with the items you have collected. The brass U.S. eagle helmet plate has crossed rifles signifying Infantry.
Both of these treasures are great The number attached to the Eagle shield, “23,” signifies the 23rd U.S.
pieces of American history that were Infantry which fought both in the Spanish-American War and the
fashionable and stylish at the time of Philippine insurrection. The 23rd is known to have fought many battles
their manufacture and show us a and many wars. The gold metal spike was the style and covered an air
glimpse of the mid to late 19th vent to help keep the head cool. Seeing this spike, we are reminded that
century fashion trends. Even the US the Imperial German army wore spiked black helmets through WWI.
military tried to be fashionable with The spike on a U.S. military model 1881 was sometimes replaced with a
the times as we see by the helmet. gold metal plume holder and a colored Buffalo or Yak hair plume inside
The coat is not made of buffalo that looked as if the top of the head had a tail. Different colored plumes
hide. I believe it is bear hide or and attachable cords were used to differentiate the branches of the
bearskin. The bear hides as well as military. The helmet has a white band above the bill. It would have had
buffalo hides were worn by Native either a white leather chinstrap or a gold chain chin strap. There are also
Americans for centuries as a necessity two military buttons on each side of the helmet. The inside is partially
for survival in low-temperature lined with green cloth and a leather sweatband. This helmet has been
climates. Others, like some fur trap- covered in Blanco or whitening for parade use and was either made of
pers, mountain men, and explorers, wore bearskin coats since contact and cloth-covered felt or cloth-covered cork. This particular helmet appears
trade with the Native Americans began. to be felt and has at some point in time been blocked or re-formed. The
In circa 1820s, animal hides, pelts, and skins were very fashionable to label on the inside reads: Ridebock & Co, formerly Baker & McKenney,
wear by the Europeans and Americans, especially on the east coast. They 141 Grand St., New York. It has been said that the U.S. government
craved their beaver skin hats, bear, buffalo, and beaverskin coats, hats, contracted with Horsttmann & Sons to supply Pith Helmets for the
and mittens as well as furs for the ladies. This drove many trappers and U.S. army, so this may have been a private purchase. Ridebock and Co
fur companies to trap animals to the point of extinction in areas of North contracted to supply the New York 23rd National Guard Infantry
America just to supply the wealthy with a fashion statement. The more regiment with pith hats during the Spanish American War.
time passed, the farther west the trappers and hunters had to go to find If I were to see this U.S. model 1881 military pith helmet in the same
animals to kill and trap for fur. Buffalo, Bear, Beaver, Mink, Otter, and condition at auction today I would expect to pay an estimated
muskrat became scarce animals east of the Mississippi River as early as the $350/$400.
1850s, and in the west by the 1880s. Even as late as the 1920s the fad of As usual, DS, you have amazed me with the great pieces of history
wearing raccoon skin coats was a fashion statement with college-age men. you find.
Fortunately, the seemingly insatiable appetite for fur coats, gloves, and David Moore
hats seemed to dwindle but not totally fade out. By the early 1900s Certified Professional Antiques Appraiser
and continuing even today hunting and trapping regulations became
stricter. Conservation organizations along with Federal and State wildlife
departments were reintroducing animals that had been “trapped out” in David Moore is part of the school’s “Ask The Experts”
years past to areas they originally inhabited. Today, fur coats are appraising team, and is an honors graduate and “Certified”
still being made and worn, but are not popular with most people for Asheford Institute of Antiques Appraiser. Mr. Moore is the
leisure wear any longer. owner of Waterman’s Antiques, was President of the
Your Bearskin coat circa 1910s is approximately 56 inches long and is Indiana Archaeo logical Society, and is a published author,
quite worn. It has a quilted fabric, with a side pocket inside and two with over 50 years of experience in the research and study
pockets outside. The hide was tanned and coat manufactured by the of antiques and collectibles.
Cownie Tanning Company in Des Moines Iowa. Cownie Tanning

44 Journal of Antiques and Collectibles