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with a $30,000 loan, eventually aesthetics of the American upper
expanding his designs to a full class. His fashion ideas have been
menswear line. The rest, as they say, criticized by some for not being
is fashion history. particularly innovative, yet it’s that
Lauren is known for capitalizing aspirational style and the images
on an aspirational style and key evoked by his campaigns that have
insignia which evokes the British defined American fashion for men
gentry while also referencing the and women of all ages for over a
half a century, and makes Ralph
Lauren one of the most important
Far left: Polo designer James Jeter and his American designers of a generation.
colleague Dara Douglas photobomb a group With this new collection and cam-
of Spellman College models showing off paign, both Ralph Lauren the man
clothing in their new Polo line.
and Ralph Lauren the brand show
it’s never too late to think more
Left: Spelman student modeling the vintage-
styled white pantsuit with emblem and beret. inclusively and authentically about
American fashion and aspiration.
photo: Nadine Ijewere/Polo Ralph Lauren

Charles James

America’s First Courturier

racing the cover of this month’s issue is an image that first designing, fitting, and creating new forms for America’s most
appeared on the cover of a 2014 exhibit catalog from The prominent and stylish women, among them the style-setting
heiress Millicent Rogers; the art patron Dominique de
GMet promoting an inaugural exhibition of the newly ren-
Menil; Austine McDonnell Hearst, journalist and wife of
ovated Costume Institute examining the career of legendary publisher William Randolph Hearst Jr.; and the entertainer
20th century Anglo-American couturier Charles James (1906– Gypsy Rose Lee.
1978). James reached the height of his popularity and productivity
The exhibition featured 65 of the most notable designs James in the early 1950s. The culminating design of his dressmaking
produced over the course of his career, from the 1920s until his career was, in his opinion, a 1953 ball gown with an
death in 1978, and explored his design process, specifically his undulating four-lobed skirt known as the “Abstract,” or
use of sculptural, scientific, and mathematical approaches to “Four-Leaf Clover.” (shown left) Created initially for
construct revolutionary ball gowns and his innovative Austine McDonnell Hearst to wear to the Eisenhower
tailoring that continue to influence designers today. inaugural ball, it merged James’ skills as a sculptor,
Recognized for his iconoclastic approach to architect, and engineer in one spectacular statement.
dressmaking, James traveled in circles orbited by James regarded his creations as pieces of art.
artistic and creative luminaries such as Cecil Beaton, He would spend years on a single sleeve and
Stephen Tennant, Pavel Tchelitchew, Jean Cocteau, months on a seam. Each season he would re-work
and Salvador Dalí. Couturiers Paul Poiret, Elsa original designs, the components of which were
Schiaparelli, Cristobal interchangeable. He retired from his label in 1958 deciding
Balenciaga, and Christian instead to devote his time to art. However, he continued to design
Dior were also among his through collaborations.
acquaintances and early supporters. In 1962 he designed a mass-produced collection for E.J Korvette.
Dior in fact attributed his New But he found it hard to adapt to the needs of mass production
Look designs to a James idea. preferring the environment of personalized couture. The following
While he produced fewer than a years saw James invent new techniques for dress
thousand garments over the patterns, design jewelry, and furniture.
40-year span of his career, he In 1970 James worked alongside illustrator
continues to hold cult status in Antonio to make drawings of all of his
fashion circles. work, creating a permanent record of
Initially building his career in his designs.
London and Paris, James moved to In 2001, almost 25 years after his
New York City permanently in death, James’s work as an innovative
late 1939. By 1945, after briefly and influential American designer was
working for Elizabeth Arden, immortalized with a plaque on the
whose showroom he designed, newly laid “Fashion Walk of Fame”
James had gained sufficient along 7th Avenue in New York City,
recognition to open his own work- his name forever linked with the
room and salon at 699 Madison design greats of 20th century
Charles James with Austine Hearst Avenue. From there he worked in American fashion.
at a fitting. the pure couture tradition, custom
from the cover image

June 2022 39