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put a pause on life as a socialite to rewrite
her narrative and launch her own line of
designer jeans.
Vanderbilt’s idea for designing women’s
jeans grew out of a conversation she had with
clothing manufacturer Mohan Murjani’s
manager, Warren Hersch, who asked
Vanderbilt, who was working for the design
house at the time, to create a “really great fit
jean,” out of excess denim fabric it was
holding in Hong Kong. Her early creation set
the course for her company’s signature form-
fitting and rear-branded designs. Her iconic
dark skinny jeans included an embroidered
A later portrait of
gold swan on the front, referencing her first Gloria Vanderbilt.
acting role in the Pennsylvania Pocono
photo: Interview
Playhouse’s 1954 version of The Swan, and
featured her signature on the back right pocket. Although a designer’s At 15-years-old, Brooke Shields had already risen to stardom as a young actress and
name stitched onto clothing is commonplace now, Vanderbilt was a model in the 1980s. But, when she was recruited by designer Calvin Klein to appear
pioneer in this regard. She was arguably the creator of designer denim in a series of overtly sexy print and television ads (shot by Richard Avedon) for his new
– the first to elevate the popular staple with her name. line of super-tight jeans, she became infamous for uttering the flirtatious line:
“Do you know what comes between me and my Calvins? Nothing.” Unfortunately, a
scandalized America didn’t consider Shields’ appearance in the ads, looking much more
mature than a mere 15-year-old “nothing.” In fact, the ads caused a public uproar,
making negative publicity as much a part of the marketing effort as the ads themselves.
Though the commercial was banned by ABC and CBS in New York, Klein himself
didn’t back down from his choice. The buzz around the first-ever high-fashion designer
denim collection only boosted sales for the brand. It also landed Brooke Shields more
fame and fortune. In 1981 alone, she was on the cover of over 30 magazines.

at age 32, Klein was elected to the group’s
Hall of Fame. But his greatest fame was still
to come.
Perhaps competitively inspired by
Gloria Vanderbilt’s success with women’s
designer jeans, Calvin Klein introduced its
take on jeans for women in 1978. It was
clear with his iconic ad campaign featuring
a seductively posed 15-year-old Brooke
Shields sharing that nothing came between
her and her Calvins, that Calvin Kleins Back logo from vintage 1990s
were not your mother’s [Gloria Vanderbilt] Calvin Klein Easy Fit jeans
jeans. Of their jeans, a company spokes- selling for $65 online.
1980s vintage Gloria Vanderbilt jeans with person was quoted as saying at the time,
The Swan and signature used on her signature on the back pocket and selling “The tighter they are, the better they sell.”
Gloria Vanderbilt jeans. for $78 on giselaandzoe.com
To get that rear-hugging silhouette,
Klein raised the groin in his jeans to
When Vanderbilt officially launched her denim line in 1976, it was accentuate the crotch and pulled the
met with enormous success. The flattering jeans were a hit with seam up between the buttocks to give
American women, launching Vanderbilt to a new level of celebrity the rear more shape. By the following
status. When she starred in her own advertisements on buses and year, Calvin Klein controlled one-fifth
television screens, she became one of the most recognizable women in of the designer jeans market, second
America. In 1978 when her million-dollar television commercial aired, only to Gloria Vanderbilt.
every single pair of jeans her company had produced—150,000 pairs— Today, vintage Calvins can be found
sold out. on online resale sites such as Etsy and
Gloria Vanderbilt proved that jeans were not just practical but could Poshmark for around $50-$85. How
also be fashionable, shifting the focus away from ruggedness and can you tell if your Calvin is vintage?
durability to fit and style. According to oneoffvintage.com, in
The hot American designer at the time, Calvin Klein, took notice recent years, Calvin Klein stopped
of Vanderbilt’s success and the opportunity to build a fashionable completely sewing in their neck tags, so
jeans line based on fit and brand. It was not long before he was hot on if the jeans you found have a loop tab,
her heels. only sewn in on the sides, or has the
brand printed on them, then your
CALVIN KLEIN Calvin Klein is likely from the last 15
years and not considered vintage.
In 1967, Calvin Klein Ltd. was formed, a partnership between
Calvin Klein, an up-and-coming American designer, and his business Top left: The use of body and denim set a marketing
partner and childhood friend, Barry Schwartz. look for Calvin Klein jeans that lasted well into the
Klein mainly designed women’s coats and two-piece suits until 21st century, as seen in this 2014 advertisement.
1972, when he began concentrating on sporty sweaters, skirts, dresses,
shirts, and pants that could be mixed and matched for a complete Bottom left: Calvin Klein with two of his favorite
wardrobe. His take on women’s fashion revolutionized the industry and models, Kate Moss (l) and Christy Turlington (r).

18 Journal of Antiques and Collectibles