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career and design philosophy, The Dress Doctor (1959) and How
To Dress For Success (1967). These books were re-edited in 2008 and
2011, respectively.
A third book was published posthumously in 1983 by E. P. Dutton,
Inc., co-written by Edith Head and Paddy Calistro, and featuring a
forward by Bette Davis called Edith Head’s Hollywood describes some of
the hundreds of productions she worked on and gives her personal
impressions of the actors and actresses for whom she created costumes.
A 25th Anniversary Edition came out in 2008. The book features 96
pages of black and white photos among its 296 pages.
Head was also known for creating airline uniforms for Pan Am from
1975-1980. Her iconic pantsuit uniform, complete with an infinity
blouse and hat, offered two color palettes: navy blue or “Pan Am Blue.”
These uniforms were in service until 1980.
In the late 1970s, Edith Head was asked to design a woman’s
uniform for the United States Coast Guard because of the increasing
Two costume sketches of Robert Redford as “Waldo” in The Great Waldo Pepper. number of women enlisting. Head called the assignment a highlight in her
(Universal, 1975) Vintage original (2) costume sketches accomplished in pencil and
gouache on 15 x 20 in. artists’ boards. Featuring Robert Redford in (1) an aviation career and received the Meritorious Public Service Award for her efforts.

costume and (1) a period suit and cap as the title character. Both retain fabric
swatches affixed to the upper right corner. Both with pencil notations in the The Value of Sketches
margins. The aviator sketch retains an Edith Head memo suggesting changes
to the jacket tipped to the lower right corner of the board. This drawing sold for At auction, Head sketches remain
$3,900 at Heritage auctions in June 2017. widely popular and highly collectible.
They are also only accelerating in price
with some pride, ‘‘It was the first time that the costume design Oscar as the years go on, with marquee names
went to a picture with no female star.’’ for memorable films commanding the
Even if she had not worked on the films for which she was given the highest values. Here are the results
Oscar, Head’s career would still read like a short history of filmmaking, from a few 2022 auctions:
with such productions as The Greatest Show on Earth, The Ten A vintage original costume sketch
Commandments, Funny Face, Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, and by Edith Head for Tippi Hedren as
Airport to her credit. “Melanie Daniels” in The Birds
While Head’s designs dominated Hollywood for over a half-century, (Universal, 1963) sold for $11,875 this
she remembers the thirties as her favorite decade in Hollywood, when past July at Heritage Auctions. Also at
“the star was a star … [and] she wore real fur, real jewels.” Her job was that auction, an Audrey Hepburn
to create fantasy, “to change people into something they weren’t – it “Holly Golightly” costume sketch by
was a cross between camouflage and magic.” Matinee audiences during Tippi Hedren “Melanie Daniels” Head for Breakfast at Tiffany’s
the Depression and World War II were full of women who stood in line Costume Sketch by Edith Head for (Paramount, 1961) sold for $38,750.
to see the latest fashions of their screen idols: “Then, a designer was The Birds (Universal, 1963). A pair of gouache and ink on paper
as important as a star,” Head recalled. “Dress was part of the selling of Vintage original costume sketch original costume sketches from the
a picture.” accomplished in gouache and ink production of The Lucille Ball Comedy
on 14” x 16.75” artist’s paper leaf Hour: Mr. and Mrs. (Desilu Studios,
Beyond Hollywood by legendary costume designer 1964) by Edith Head, with each
Edith Head. Iconic green signature sketch signed to the bottom right by
Although Head is best known for her work as suit designed for and worn by Head, sold for $3,840 at Julien’s
a Hollywood costume designer, her designs and Tippi Hedren throughout most of Auctions this past December.
the famous Hitchcock films.
style advice were in demand outside the For Hedren’s film debut, she won A Head sketch of an original
Hollywood bubble, as well. the Golden Globe award for “Most costumer design for Judy Garland in
Head built on her Hollywood celebrity to Promising Newcomer - Female.” the film I Could Go On Singing, 1963,
purvey her ideas about practical and simple design This drawing was sold at inscribed by Head in pencil “Garland”
through a network of other commercial channels. Heritage Auctions for $11,875 at the upper right and signed “Edith
She wrote articles for Photoplay magazine about in July 2022. Head” at lower left, sold for $22,000 at
how the average girl could dress like a star, Helicline Fine Art in New York City.
licensed her name for Vogue pattern designs, and, Edith Head claimed to have designed 1,131 films throughout her
beginning in 1948, appeared as a regular guest on career. Her drawings captured the essence of the actor in a particular
Art Linkletter’s House Party, where she gave role and were drawn with a flair for movement and personality. Over
women in the audience practical advice about how Edith Head Pan Am the years, film and fashion fans have developed an appreciation for the
Uniform worn by
to dress and generally improve their looks. stewardess Julie woman whose story is as fascinating as the history of the film industry
She also authored two books describing her Skartvedt in 1975 itself, for she helped shape the Hollywood we know today.

To learn more about Edith Head and her incredible designs, check out these videos available to view at our online Video Gallery
1978 Interview A conversation Oscar-winning
from the between film and costume designer
Videofashion Vault fashion historian Edith Head discusses
where she states, “I Kimberly Truhler the nominees and
don’t think people and Hollywood’s outfits at the 42nd
realize the power of most iconic Academy Awards
fashion.” costume designer in 1970.
Edith Head.

24 Journal of Antiques and Collectibles