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Cartier was fascinated and captivated by Toussaint. What started as a nickname became the basis of one of
He admired her taste and joie de vivre. At the end of Cartier’s most stunning developments in jewelry – the Cartier
1913, Louis hired Toussaint to oversee the company’s Panthère wristwatch. In 1914, the famous wildcat appeared on
accessories, despite her inability to draw. She quickly a Cartier wristwatch for the first time. The stones adorning the
found her audience and expanded Cartier’s accessories piece symbolized the feminine temperament and avant-garde
business among the wealthy and elite, both from Europe allure of the panther, while the diamond’s scintillation was a
and America. nod to the wildcat’s gleaming coat. From 1922 to 1935, the
During her first few years at Cartier, Toussaint spotted panther motif starts appearing on various Cartier
designed handbags that served the woman using them watches, jewelry designs, and accessories, such as cigarette cases.
well, wallets that accommodated her needs, and In her new position as Director of Fine Jewelry, Toussaint
luxurious necessaries for the wealthy heiresses of the began to more fully embrace her inner panther, finding
1920s like Marjorie Merriweather-Post and Daisy inspiration in sculptural and three-dimensional panther
Fellowes, complete with compacts, money clips, and creations, typically set with white and yellow diamonds,
lipstick tubes in gold, platinum, and fine gems. emeralds, and onyx. Her large cat-themed brooches,
Jeanne understood the needs that might come up bracelets, and even rings were exquisitely made out of the
for a lady about town, and how to design a finest, most decadent materials.
necessity so that it functions as well as being The first La Pantheré jewel was commissioned
stylish and timeless. in 1948 by the Dutchess of Windsor, Wallace
Her success and following of wealthy clientele Simpson. The gold and enamel panther brooch set
led Louis in 1933 to appoint Toussaint, Director with a cabochon emerald was crafted by both
of Fine Jewelry at Cartier, making her the first Toussaint and designer Pierre Lemarchand. The
woman to ever hold such a position in the jewelry panther brooch struck a chord with other strong-willed
industry. From that point on, the panther’s position females of the day and set off a chain reaction, making
within the house was solidified, signaling one of the La Panthére rings, drop earrings, and pendants hugely
most recognizable and collectible eras in Cartier’s history. desirable among other European and American elite,
While theirs was a working relationship that including Daisy Fellowes, the Woolworth heiress Barbara
lasted decades and made a significant imprint on the Hutton and Princess Nina Aga Khan, as one of the 20th
Company’s business and 20th century jewelry design, it century’s most iconic accessories.
was also a tragic love story. Toussaint was the love of his
life (and he, hers), but Cartier was forbidden to marry her A Jeweled Menagerie
because of her family background. In 1924, Louis mar- Following the wildly successful La Panthére brooch, the
ried a Hungarian aristocrat, and in 1954, Toussaint Duchess of Windsor and Toussaint then went on to create a
finally married her long-time partner Baron Pierre Hely menagerie of animal-themed jewels. The two designed
d’Oissel and took the title of Baronne. Despite their dragonflies, ladybugs, birds of paradise, tigers, and lions, as
marriages, it was said that theirs was an affair of the heart well as a spectacular brooch of a flamingo, a very recognizable
until the end. piece in most jewelry aficionado’s memory. The flamingo

was inspired by a private story between the Duke and
The Panthére Duchess and for her birthday in 1940, the Duke met with
Toussaint obviously identified with this sleek First appearance Toussaint and had the flamingo commissioned out of
predator. It was said her apartment was filled with their of the Panthére jewelry from their collection. The Duchess of Windsor is
skins, collected and gifted to her from all around the pattern, in onyx known to have worn the Flamingo brooch soon after acquir-
world. And, she was famously known for wearing a and diamonds, ing it. She was spotted wearing it while accompanied by the
full-length coat made of panther fur. According to some, on a ladies’ Duke, for his forty-sixth birthday on June 23, 1940 at the
it was Louis who chose the panther in Barbier’s Dame à wristwatch, 1914 Ritz Hotel in Madrid.
la Panthère ad for Cartier as a tribute to Toussaint, When she wasn’t creating a menagerie of jewels,
whom he affection- Toussaint pursued her fascination with India and revealed pieces
ately called his evocative of Indian Mughal jewelry and ancient Maharajas. Artfully
“Petite Panthére.” carved rubies, emeralds, diamonds, and sapphires led to a revival of
“Tutti Frutti” jewelry under Toussaint’s meticulous direction in the
late 1950s.

A panther clip brooch
made for Duchess of
Windsor by Cartier Paris,
1949. Platinum, white
gold, single-cut diamonds,
two pear-shaped yellow
diamonds, one 152.35-
carat Kashmir sapphire
cabochon, and sapphire
cabochons.
Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, looking happy Panthére de Cartier necklace with pavé diamonds achieved $50,000
in her Cartier Panthére bracelet at Fortuna Auction in 2019
24 Journal of Antiques and Collectibles