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Antique Brilliant Cut Diamonds

by Sunseria Morgan, Jewelry Curator, rubylane.com

iamonds have not always been the bright shiny sparkling jewels Special Characteristics
that we know and love today. For centuries diamonds remained Old Mine and Old European cut
Duncut in their natural rough form, or were crudely shaped only diamonds often have uneven facets
with a chisel and mallet. Diamond is the hardest substance on earth, and deeper cut proportions. Both
and only diamonds were used to cut diamonds, until laser cutting was old cuts usually have a culet, which is
developed in the mid 1900s. a small facet at the base of the
It was not until the 1400s when the diamond polishing wheel was diamond. The culet is not typically
invented, which was embedded with diamond dust and could slowly seen in modern cuts, and can be
grind flat symmetrical facets on the surface of the rough diamond a clue to the age of the diamond
crystal, that the modern faceted diamond as we know it began to take cut. Despite their less-than-perfect Art Deco Era Old European Cut
shape. With more advancements in diamond cutting tools, and an symmetry, the old antique cuts can Ring in Platinum
increase in diamond sources, demand for the precious stones grew, still dazzle you with their radiance.
and early forms of multi faceted brilliant cut diamonds became the cut While contemporary round brilliant cuts are designed to reflect more
of choice! white light, the proportions of the old cuts often allow the stone to
show more spectral colors known as “fire.” Fire is the term used when
the white light breaks up within the stone, and is returned to the eye in
a rainbow of colors. The old antique cuts look especially beautiful and
display their fire best in candlelight. You can just imagine all the
sparkling diamond color on the hands of the guests, as they raised a
glass to toast at an extravagant Georgian-era dinner party.
Old cuts lacking some of the brilliance, or white light reflection of
the modern cuts, can sometimes allow you to actually view into the
depth of the stone, instead of being blinded by the reflected light. It’s
like looking through a tiny window into a hall of mirrors!

Where Do the Names Come From?
Cartier Rough Diamond Charm Rough Uncut Diamond Crystal The term Old Mine cut comes from the mining sources that were
Pendant in 18K Gold depleted, mainly located in Brazil and India, with the majority of
diamonds being cut in India. New diamond sources were discovered in
Africa at around the same time diamond-cutting advances were made,
and new diamond-cutting industries were established in Europe.
For hundreds of years, humankind has strived to create the perfectly
cut and proportioned diamond, in order to bring out the best of the
stone’s optical properties. It’s only natural that once a goal is realized,
we look back through all the steps that got us there in the first place and
can appreciate the struggles, and imperfections we experienced along
the way.
Interest for old style cut diamonds has grown significantly in recent
years. I believe it’s due to our desire to connect with the past, and to
possess something as unique, and perfectly flawed as each one of us!
What diamond will you choose to add to your collection next? Old,
Art Deco Sterling Silver Dragons Old Mine Cut Diamond new, rough or uncut, maybe one of each …
Breath Ring

The “Old Mine Cut” was a popular cut from the early 1700s to
the late 1800s. The Old Mine cut can be identified by its squarish
girdle outline with soft rounded corners. Old Mine cuts were
shaped and faceted by hand giving each one distinctive proportions and
characteristics.
The invention of the diamond bruting machine in the 1870s,
allowed for the creation of the first truly round brilliant, now referred
to as the “Old European Cut.” Unlike the square cushion shape of the
Old Mine cut, the Old European Cut has a circular or round outline
and has more even facets and uniformity. Old Mine Cut Diamond 3 Stone Engagement Ring

14 Journal of Antiques and Collectibles