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Collection: National Museum Collection: Peabody Essex Museum
of American History
Wedding Dress, ca. 1879
Woman’s Gown, ca. 1780 Owner: Jenny Jameson Rice
Owner: Martha Washington
Jenny Jameson Rice
(b. 1858) wore this dress
Martha Washington served as
the nation’s first First Lady but on her wedding day
on June 10, 1879, to
was so much more. She joined Richard Jessup Morgan
her husband at winter encamp- of New York, grandson
ments during the Revolutionary of industrialist and ship-
War, helped manage and run ping magnate Charles
her husbands’ estates, raised her Morgan (1795-1878).
children, grandchildren, nieces, The couple had three
and nephews, and for almost 40 children. When her
years was George Washington’s husband died, Jenny
“worthy partner.” She was married Dr. Henry A.
fashionable but conservative in Manderwille, M.D.
her dress, her eye for fine fabrics Rococo Revival style
and tailoring was well-known. As wedding dress from the
described by Abigail Adams, wife Victorian period. Ivory/
of the second President John gold silk brocade in a
Adams, Martha Washington floral and feather pattern
remained: “plain in her dress, but with ivory silk satin.
that plainness is the best of the Embroidered with ivory
article. … Her manners are modest and silk and seed pearls at the
unassuming, dignified and feminine.” collar and extensively on
This gown’s basic style is typical of the early 1780s. The painted
pattern on the silk taffeta is a repeat of four floral bouquets and 58 the front of the skirt.
Princess cut construction with band collar, elbow-length sleeve, and
creatures (butterflies, ants, beetles, snails, bees, grasshoppers, wasps, button fastening at front. Bustle skirt with a triangular embroidered
ladybugs, spiders, and grubs) placed within the spaces between the panel at front; bustle and train at back.
ribbon-trellis pattern. Each crossover is accented with a painted green
“jewel.” The fabric displays characteristics common to 18th century
hand-painted Chinese textiles: fluid brush strokes, a white lead base
coat of paint, green malachite pigment for the “jewels,” and a 30-inch Collection: National Museum of
selvage-to-selvage width. The collar and cuffs are reproductions. African American History and Culture

Silk & Lace Shawl, ca. 1897
Collection: Old Sturbridge Village Owner: Harriet Tubman

Woman’s Dress, ca. 1813 Harriet Tubman (1820-
Owner: Hope Potter Merinio 1913), called the “Moses” of
her people, is known for
Hope Potter Merinio wore this liberating herself and count-
dress on her wedding day, April 24, less others from the yoke of
1831, in Bristol, Rhode Island. slavery. As a “conductor” on
Creating new dresses was expensive the Underground Railroad,
so Hope reused the dress after her she led more than 300 slaves
wedding and refitted it in creative to freedom. In addition to
ways. To create more room in the aiding runaways, she served as
back, someone sewed part of a sleeve a scout, spy, cook, and nurse
into the bodice allowing for the for the Union Army during
addition of hooks, resulting in an the Civil War. She is one of
unusual look. the most recognized African
Merinio’s white silk satin gown or American women of the
dress with long sleeves and extra 19th century.
short sleeves. Both sleeve designs are One of the most treasured
pleated at the shoulder and feature objects at the Smithsonian’s
two rows of embroidered with a new National Museum of
brown silk chainstitch. On the short African American History and Culture is the white, silk, and lace shawl
sleeves, the lower rows have been that Queen Victoria gave Tubman in 1897 when the royal was giving
removed. The bodice is styled with out medals to heroes worldwide as part of her Diamond Jubilee. Even
horizontal pleating. Four rows of though Tubman did not attend this special event, it is believed that
tucks around the waistband (two Queen Victoria sent the shawl as a gift along with the commemorative
similar at the cuff of short sleeves). medal dignitaries received for attending. According to two scholars, the
The back of the bodice has curved seams covered with double rows of medal was pinned to Tubman’s black dress and she was buried with it.
tucked fabric. Skirt pleated in front and gauged in back. Hook and eye The shawl survives because Tubman’s descendants preserved it long
closure. Bodice has been enlarged at the center back by applique of one enough to present it to a professional bibliophile, Dr. Charles L.
of the scalloped cuffs and a small gusset set in under arms. The bodice Blockson, who thought it worthy to be preserved as a national treasure
and lower edge of the skirt are lined. for the American people.

18 Journal of Antiques and Collectibles