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Collection: Victoria & Albert Museum                               Collection: Electra Havemeyer Webb,
                                                                                            founder, Shelburne Museum
                                                 Evening Dress, ca. 1908
                                                  Owner: Lady Pearson
                                                                                             Two-Piece Satin Evening Dress, ca. 1950
                                                                                                   Owner: Shelburne Museum
                                                Annie Pearson, Viscountess
                                             Cowdray, (1860–1932), was an                                 Electra Havemeyer Webb, the founder of
                                             English society hostess, suffragist,                    Shelburne Museum in Vermont, was one of
                                             and philanthropist. She was nick-                       the very few women collectors of her time.
                                             named the “Fairy Godmother of                           A genuine pioneer, she began collecting
                                             Nursing” due to her financial                           “folk art” in 1907 before almost anyone
                                             patronage of the Royal College of                        knew that Americans produced it and was
                                             Nursing and her work to promote                         piling up “Americana” before the term was
                                             district nursing throughout                             coined. She founded the museum in 1947 to
                                             England and Scotland. She                               make her vast personal collections accessible
                                             served as the President of the                          to the public and create “an educational
                                             Women’s Liberal Federation                              project, varied and alive” for all of Vermont
                                             from 1921 until 1923, and was                           and beyond.
                                             also the Honorary Treasurer of                             The Shelburne Museum was originally
                                             the Liberal Women’s Suffrage                            named “The Electra Havemeyer Webb
                                             Union. She was the only woman                           Museum of Fascination.” Mrs. Webb’s original
                                             to hold the office of High
            Steward of Colchester, serving from 1927 until she died in 1932.                         collections of fine art, folk art, decorative art,
                                                                                                     waterfowl decoys, textiles, wheeled vehicles,
               The dress is dominated by boldly embroidered panels imported
                                                                                                     and more formed the basis for a collection
            from Turkey and made up in London. In style, this dress is transitional   that now numbers more than 100,000 objects. Electra’s clothing
            between the pronounced curved shapes of the early 1900s and the   designer of choice was Hattie Carnegie of New York City.
            straighter lines (with high waists) that had become current by about   This two-piece satin evening dress, ca. 1950s, was made with silk and
            1909. There is some evidence that an earlier dress may have been     metal. The Shelburne Museum acquired it from the Estate of J. Watson
            adapted to suit the tastes of 1908. The inside of the bodice has a     Webb, Jr. It features a fitted pink bodice, three-quarter length straight
            grosgrain waist stay (grosgrain is heavily ribbed silk) with the woven   sleeves, stand-up collar, and is tied at the waist with a peplum blending
            label of Jays Ltd, which bears a taffeta ribbon marked “Lady Pearson,”   into the skirt. The skirt is pleated so the top shows only pink and then the
            the name of the wearer.                                           green stripes appear to flow out from underneath with a ballerina shape.


               Collection: Purdue University, George Palmer
                                                                                     Collection: John F. Kennedy Presidential
                Putnam Collection of Amelia Earhart Papers                                       Library and Museum

                                   Suede Jacket, ca. 1930
                                  Owner: Amelia Earhart                             Woman’s Wedding Dress,
                                                                                          ca. 1953
                                                                                     Owner: Jackie Kennedy
               Amelia     Mary
            Earhart (AE) was                                                       Jacqueline  Lee   Kennedy
            born on July 24,                                                  Onassis was an American socialite,
            1897, in Atchison,                                                writer, photographer, and book
            Kansas, and went on                                               editor who served as the first lady
            to become one of the                                              of the United States from 1961 to
            most famous women                                                 1963 as the wife of President John
            of the 20th century.                                              F. Kennedy. Kennedy was known
            In December 1920,                                                 for her taste and timeless style that
            she took her first ride                                           set fashion trends around the
            in an airplane and in                                             world. Jackie Bouvier’s wedding
            January 1921, began                                               to Jack Kennedy in 1953, held in
            taking flying lessons.                                            front of 800 invited guests, was
            With help from her                                                what we would call today a media
            family, she took a                                                circus; her much-anticipated wedding dress, designed by Ann Lowe,
            job in a telephone                                                was widely photographed. Ann Lowe was a sought-after dressmaker to
            company and bought                                                elite East Coast families—like the Rockefellers, Du Ponts, and
            her first airplane. In 1922, she set her first aviation record with an     Roosevelts—for bespoke bridal and debutante gowns.
            unofficial women’s altitude record of 14,000. The following March,   The pristine pleating on the gown’s bodice, intricate scallop pin
            Amelia appeared as one of the attractions at a local air rodeo, and in   tucks, and complex rosette embellishments with dainty wax orange
            May 1923 she acquired her airline pilot’s license. She was the first   blossoms nestled in the center—all meticulously done by hand—are
            woman, and seventeenth pilot, to receive a National Aeronautic    trademarks of Lowe. As impressive as it is today, the wedding gown
            Association pilot’s license. In May 1932, Amelia became the first   almost didn’t materialize. Two weeks before the ceremony, and after
            woman (and second person) to fly solo across the Atlantic. With this   two months of hard work, Lowe’s atelier flooded. Jackie Kennedy’s
            flight, Amelia also became the first person to cross the Atlantic twice by   wedding dress was destroyed, along with the bridesmaids’ dresses. The
            air nonstop, setting a record for the fastest Atlantic crossing and the   designer, at her own expense (and ultimately for a financial loss on the
            longest distance flown by a woman. She and her co-pilot and plane   project), purchased new fabrics and assembled an emergency seamstress
            went down during an attempt to circumnavigate the globe at the     team. Unbeknownst to her high-profile clients, Lowe recreated the
            equator in 1937. The plane and their bodies were never recovered.   collection in just 10 days. Today, the wedding dress, too delicate
               Suede jacket worn on 1932 solo Atlantic flight, Abercrombie
            & Fitch, medium brown leather, six buttons with two side pockets,    to exhibit, is preserved in the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library
                                                                              and Museum.
            ca. 1930s.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   June 202 3               19
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