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clean, and fashionable. The But perhaps one film brought the
trick was (and still is) not to cowboy look—and boots—back with a
apply too much of any one vengeance: 1980’s Urban Cowboy with
leather conditioner so that the John Travolta and Debra Winger. This
leather would not deteriorate marked a boom era that has lasted
due to the oils in the products. decades where interest in cowboys, line
The Lone Ranger radio and dancing, and the incredible popularity of
television series started in the country music took the cowboy boot to a
1930s and 40s, and then on whole new level. Suddenly color, dyed
television in the 1950s and 60s leather, intricate stitching, and applique
was the epitome of style, hon- were the order for the day when you were
esty, and politeness. Perhaps looking for cowboy boots. Famous boot-
no one more than Clayton maker names like Tony Lama Lucchese,
Moore demonstrated this by FRYE, Justin, Dan Post, and Ariat boots
adhering to strict rules when it were on display at local country music
came to being in public. venues with plenty of stomping and lots
Jacquelyn Weaver had the of looking at these fancy new boots.
chance to meet Moore as the How long will the cowboy boot Not all collectible boots are
Lone Ranger in the 1960s. continue to rule the footwear industry? leather. This 1940 metal cowboy
“He was meticulous about his As long as there are cattle and horses and boot bank made in Occupied
costume, his mask was always cowboys and cowgirls roam the land. Japan selling for $66 at
on, and his tall black cowboy charish.com
boots shone like the sun. He Like Collecting Sneakers
wore fringed white gloves the
A John Wayne Pair of Lucchese cowboy boots entire time he was meeting his People who collect historic, trendy, and custom cowboy boots are
likely from True Grit and Rooster Cogburn. fans. When I was greeting him not unlike people who collect sneakers. Things to look for when investing
Paramount, 1969 and Universal, 1975. before he stepped out to the in vintage cowboy boots include provenance, maker, materials, limited
Made of brown leather with tan-colored stage at the venue I worked editions, custom-made or factory
traditional stitching, inside stamped with for, I went to shake his hand. made, specialized features, and condi-
maker’s logo. Further handwritten annotation Moore insisted he put on his tion. If a pair was worn by a famous
in black felt tip ink reading “J.W.” Purposely white gloves on before he cowboy, a photo of them wearing the
distressed to look aged; believed to be worn by returned the handshake.” boots adds value.
Wayne as “Rooster Cogburn” in early scenes of A few of the more valuable cowboy
both or either film before the action got too boots tend to be tied to a specific
rough. Sold for $6,562.50 at Heritage Let’s Go historic moment or person rather than
Auctions in 2016.
Boot-Scootin’ just a pair of old boots. For example, a
Next to the clean-as-a-whistle cowboy on film and television, the pair of boots worn by John Wayne
(above, left) and “likely from True Grit
film industry continues to honor the West with a grittier take on the and Rooster Cogburn” sold for
"real" life out West. According to a corbetosboots.com blog post, in $6,562.50 at Heritage Auctions in
“the 1960s-decade, leather boots experienced another transformation. 2016. A pair of Tony Lama custom
The youth, at that time, lost interest in the luxurious designs used by made and unworn boots (below), said
their parents and searched for simpler designs, very similar to ones worn to be the only pair made in its style,
by the original cowboys during the 19th Century.” Ronald Reagan’s cowboy boots at sold for $20,000 at Old West Events.
The boots were taking on mud and muck like never before, and Christie’s New York. The boots sold When shopping for vintage boots
those looking to emulate the “real” cowboy followed suit by picking up for $199,500 after zooming past the to wear, you can look for a comfort-
estimate of $20,000.
single-color boots that were used for any outdoor activity or chore.
able pair of “broke-in” boots that may
just be the right size, and you may pay as little as $25 at a thrift shop
or flea market for great comfort and style.
The rule is, try them on, and if they fit, buy them.
The only known extant pair of Tony Lama
“EL REY II” boots that we are aware of.
Custom ordered from the Luskey’s 1966
catalog by an entrepreneurial Route 66 service
station owner named Ted Jenkins in Vernal,
Utah, who was seeking a roadside attraction
to rival his competitors’ dinosaurs and other
charms. This particular pair is as they are
described in the original catalog, which
advertised the “EL REY (the king) II” boots
as, “The finest boots in the world featuring a
premium grade black calf on the tops and
vamps”... gold leaf inlaid in your
name”... 54 carats precious stones
[with] 110 diamonds, 80 rubies,
and 4 star sapphires.” Also
featuring engraved sterling
heel caps and trim, along
with 12” long pull straps
inlaid in gold leaf with
Three American cowgirls, from left, Lucyle Roberts (1909-1995), Alice Greenough
(1902-1995), and Reine Shelton (1902-1979), sit on haybales, polishing and com- “Tony Lama” on the inner
paring boots in preparation for a charity rodeo in Madison Square Garden, New strap, and personalized with “TED J” on the outer strap. Fine, unworn condition;
York, New York, October 9, 1933. circa 1966. Sold for $20,000 at Oldwestevents.com June 2023 auction.

36 Journal of Antiques and Collectibles