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he very first vintage belt buckles that I bought were on Craigslist. Early Hollywood silversmiths
I didn’t know anything about them, but they looked interesting, like Edward Bohlin and Al
Tand I was hopeful about doing some research to learn the story Shelton, seized the opportunity to
behind them. But to my disappointment, I really couldn’t find much! cater to this growing trend. In
There were no relevant books at the library and nothing significant on the addition to saddles, spurs, bits,
Internet. But why was it so hard to find information about old belt buckles? and other Western hardware, they
became expert silversmiths who
Cowboy Buckles crafted elaborate belt buckles for
Unfortunately, a lot of that the Hollywood elite with intricate
information had already been lost, but floral and paisley engravings that
we do know that early cowboys in captured the spirit of the West.
America didn’t really wear belt buckles
… at least, not until the 1920s. Pants Competition Buckles
didn’t even have belt loops around the Have you ever wondered why
waist until 1922 … That’s when cowboy belt buckles are so big?
Levi—the oldest denim maker in the Hollywood silversmith Edward Bohlin Rodeo competitions first began to
world—started putting them on their poses in a photo from his 1941 catalog. award belt buckle trophies to event
jeans. Most cowboys settling in the winners in the 1920s in California.
West in the 1800s were wearing They celebrated the victors’ grit and riding abilities, so they became a
suspenders or pants that cinched from symbol of pride and professional reputation.
the back with a fabric strap. Today, we’d call this “bragging rights” … and a bigger belt buckle
It wasn’t until after the Civil War signified a tougher and more capable cowboy. The Professional Rodeo
that belt buckles became common in Cowboys Association (PRCA) and National Finals Rodeo (NFR) were
America. Military uniform “plate the most respected organizations, and their trophy buckles remain the
buckles” were relatively large, bearing most sought after. Older trophy belt buckles from before 1970 can be
A Confederate soldier in artwork that signified the soldier’s unit, quite valuable and more difficult to find.
uniform with a Georgia State rank, or state. When the war ended, In 1974, Hesston commercialized the trophy buckle tradition.
Seal plate buckle.
veterans sought new opportunities in Partnering with the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association (PRCA),
the Wild West, and some Hesston introduced an annual series of
continued wearing their belt buckles in civilian life or as lawmen collectible buckles that showcased
on the frontier. The “ranger” belt buckle, popular today with various rodeo events. These buckles are
cowboys, comes from the Texas Rangers who wore three-piece an annual tradition that allows attendees
buckle sets on their gun belts. (and not just the champions) to leave
Native American silversmiths also crafted belt buckles in the with a memorable keepsake. Major
early 1900s, using the stamp work and Tufa casting techniques rodeo organizations, like the Professional
they had developed making silver jewelry like pendant necklaces, Bull Riders (PBR), continue to award
cuff bracelets, and bolo ties. Yet another style of belt buckle extravagant buckles to their champions,
popular in the early 1900s was called a slide or compression and TV broadcasts of rodeo events have
buckle. One of the best-known manufacturers was Hickock, further amplified the cultural signifi-
founded in 1909. They produced a variety of men’s belt buckles cance of these buckles, ensuring that the
that were small, sleek, and often featured a monogram pattern tradition continues.
with personalized lettering or initials.
Fake “Tiffany” Belt Buckles
Hi-Yo, Silver But why did belt buckles become so
The invention of movies in the 1890s was a significant source popular in the early 1970s? After all, it
of inspiration for cowboy belt buckles. The Western film genre wasn’t just cowboys that were wearing
was an instant hit, captivating audiences of the 1910s and 20s them. In the late 1960s, antique collectors
with tales of gun-slinging heroes like Tom Mix, Gene Autry, and encountered rare and unusual-looking
Roy Rodgers. These larger-than-life characters wore eye-catching Magazine ad for the 1988 Hesston NFR belt buckles at pawn shops, gun shows,
belt buckles that shined on the silver screen. Buckle made by Award Design Medals and flea markets. By all regards, they
of Noble, OK
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