by Jessica Kosinski
filigree harlequin glass brooch.
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What Is Vintage Jewelry?
Vintage jewelry usually means pieces that are between 50 and 100 years old. That’s different from antique jewelry, which is typically over 100 years old. Collectors love vintage jewelry because it’s full of personality and often showcases craftsmanship and materials you don’t see much anymore. Unlike modern mass-produced jewelry, vintage pieces often have intricate details and unique touches that make them stand out.
How Vintage Differs from Antique and Estate Jewelry
It’s helpful to know that while “vintage” refers to pieces from the last century, “antique” is reserved for jewelry older than 100 years. “Estate jewelry” is another term you’ll hear, which simply means previously owned and can be vintage, antique, or even modern. Understanding these terms can help you navigate shops and auctions with confidence.
glass amber necklace.
The Allure of Vintage Jewelry
Part of the appeal of vintage jewelry is the sense of nostalgia and connection to the past. Each piece tells a story about the person who wore it and the era it came from. Many collectors love imagining the occasions their jewelry once adorned or the historical events it may have witnessed. Vintage jewelry is also a sustainable choice, as it gives new life to beautiful objects rather than relying on new mining or manufacturing.
A Quick Look at Vintage Jewelry Styles and Eras
Different time periods have their own distinct styles, so knowing a bit about them can help you spot and appreciate vintage jewelry:
- Victorian Era (1837-1901): Jewelry from this period featured romantic designs with hearts, bows, and flowers, usually in gold with colorful gems.
- Edwardian Era (1901-1915): These pieces were delicate and elegant, with lots of platinum, diamonds, and intricate filigree work.
- Art Deco (1920s-1930s): This jewelry often featured bold geometric shapes, symmetry, and contrasting materials.
- Mid-Century Modern (1940s-1960s): You can recognize many examples of this era by by their sleek lines and creative use of materials not previously used in earlier eras.
Exploring Other Notable Eras
Beyond the main eras, you’ll also find jewelry from the Retro period (late 1930s-1950s), which is known for big, bold designs and the use of rose gold. Meanwhile, the 1970s and 1980s brought in playful, over-sized costume jewelry and the use of new synthetic materials. Each era reflects the fashion, technology, and even the social attitudes of its time.
Recognizing Era-Specific Features
Learning to identify features like clasp types, stone cuts, and metal finishes can help you date a piece more accurately. For example, Victorian jewelry might use “C” clasps, while Art Deco pieces often feature baguette-cut stones and white gold or platinum settings. Paying attention to these details adds another layer of enjoyment to collecting.
Vintage Materials to Watch For
- Amber Glass: Amber glass looks a lot like natural amber but is actually colored glass. It was popular in vintage costume jewelry because it’s affordable and looks great. Pieces with amber glass have a warm glow that’s perfect for adding a vintage vibe to any collection.
- Filigree Harlequin Glass: This is a fancy name for jewelry that mixes delicate metal filigree patterns with colored glass, often arranged in diamond shapes. It was especially popular in the Victorian and Edwardian times and adds a touch of elegance and detail to any piece.
- Bakelite: Bakelite is one of the earliest plastics and was used to make bold, colorful jewelry from the 1920s to the 1940s. You’ll often find chunky bracelets, brooches, and earrings made from Bakelite. Today, these pieces are highly collectible, especially in rare colors or with unique designs.
Other Popular Vintage Materials
Besides these, keep an eye out for materials like celluloid (another early plastic), rhinestones, marcasite, and enamel. Gold-filled and rolled gold were common in vintage jewelry, providing the look of gold at a lower price. Pearls were also popular, especially in mid-century designs.
Tips for Identifying Materials
If you’re unsure about a material, there are some simple tests you can try. For example, Bakelite has a distinctive smell when warmed, and real amber floats in saltwater. Learning these tricks can help you avoid imitations and make smarter purchases.
Learning to Read Hallmarks
Hallmarks are official marks stamped on precious metals to prove their purity and origin. One of the most important things for anyone starting out in vintage jewelry collecting is learning to recognize hallmarks or maker’s marks. These tiny stamps or engravings tell you a lot about a piece. Information you can learn includes where it is from, what materials were used to make it, and sometimes the identity of a specific artist who made it.
Hallmarks help you know if a piece is authentic and can even tell you how valuable it might be. For example, a ring marked “18ct” means it’s made of 18-carat gold. Designer marks, like those from Cartier can make a piece even more special.
found on a variety of jewelry.
Common Types of Hallmarks
You’ll often find hallmarks indicating metal purity (like “925” for sterling silver or “14K” for gold), country of origin, and sometimes a date letter. Maker’s marks can be initials, symbols, or full names. Some countries, like the UK, have a long tradition of hallmarking, while others may have less consistent practices.
How to Learn Hallmarks When Collecting Vintage Jewelry
Start with reference books or online databases that list hallmarks from different eras. A jeweler’s loupe (a small magnifying glass) is also helpful. You can use it to see these tiny marks better when shopping for vintage jewelry you may want to collect. There are also plenty of online forums where collectors share tips and help each other that can be beneficial, especially when you are first starting to collect vintage jewelry.
Building Your Hallmark Knowledge
As you collect, keep a notebook or photo log of hallmarks you encounter. Over time, you’ll start to recognize certain marks and what they mean. Don’t hesitate to ask sellers or other collectors for help – most are happy to share their knowledge. Some jewelry shows even offer free hallmark identification services.
Where to Find Vintage Jewelry Today
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- Antique and Vintage Shops: These stores often have a wide variety and knowledgeable sellers who can share the story behind the pieces.
- Estate Sales and Auctions: Estate sales can be treasure troves of vintage jewelry, and auctions sometimes offer rare finds.
- Online Marketplaces: Websites like Etsy, eBay, and specialized vintage jewelry sites give you access to a huge variety of pieces from all over the world. Just be sure to check seller reviews and ask questions.
- Flea Markets and Vintage Fairs: These are great for browsing and sometimes scoring unexpected gems at good prices.
- Jewelry Shows and Conventions: Events focused on vintage and antique jewelry bring together dealers and collectors, making it easier to find special pieces and learn more about certain types of vintage jewelry.
- Pawn Shops: Sometimes overlooked, pawn shops can have hidden vintage treasures if you know what to look for.
Additional Places to Hunt for Vintage Jewelry
Selling on eBay for $140.
Don’t forget about thrift stores, consignment shops, and even garage sales. Sometimes the best finds are in the most unexpected places, such as a family member’s attic. Some collectors also network with friends, letting people know they’re on the lookout for vintage jewelry. Social media groups and local collector clubs can be fantastic for tips on upcoming sales or private sellers also.
Tips for Buying Vintage Jewelry
When shopping, always ask about return policies and authenticity guarantees. If you’re buying online, request extra photos and ask about any repairs or alterations. It’s also smart to compare prices for similar pieces so you know you’re getting a fair deal.
How to Start Your Vintage Jewelry Collection
Vintage jewelry prices can vary a lot, so it’s smart to start with pieces you love that fit your budget. This way, you can build your collection gradually without feeling overwhelmed. Also look closely at condition to see if pieces have any missing stones or other damage issues like scratches. Check for hallmarks or makerﾒs marks. When possible, get a little history about the piece, too.
Building Confidence as a New Collector
Start small before moving on to more expensive or rare items. As your knowledge grows, you’ll feel more comfortable investing in higher-value pieces. It’s also helpful to keep a wish list of styles, materials, or designers you’re interested in, so you can stay focused when shopping.
Learning from Mistakes
Everyone makes a few mistakes when starting out, whether it’s overpaying for a piece or missing a hidden flaw. Think of these as learning experiences. Over time, you’ll develop a sharper eye and a better sense of what you truly love and value in your collection.
Taking Care of Your Vintage Jewelry
Another aspect of vintage jewelry collection is proper storage and care. Some vintage jewelry needs to be stored under specific conditions, such as out of direct sunlight. When cleaning vintage jewelry, avoid the use of harsh chemicals entirely. Also, make sure you follow the right cleaning methods for each specific material. Many pieces also do best when stored in cool, dry areas.
There is also the option of using a professional cleaning service. Professional cleaning may be best if your vintage jewelry is particularly valuable. It is also ideal to hire a professional to clean pieces that are extra delicate.
Storage Solutions and Daily Wear
Store your jewelry in soft pouches or lined boxes to prevent scratches. For pieces with delicate chains or settings, consider storing them flat or hanging them separately. If you wear your vintage jewelry regularly, check clasps and settings often to make sure they’re secure.
Preventing Damage
Avoid wearing vintage jewelry while swimming, showering, or doing chores. Chemicals, water, and even sweat can damage certain materials. For pieces with glued-in stones, keep them away from moisture, as it can weaken the adhesive.
Building Your Collection Around a Theme
Many collectors find it fun to focus on a particular vintage jewelry theme. If you decide to go that route, one option is to focus on an era, like Victorian or Art Deco. Another is to collect only pieces made using a certain material. There is also the option of focusing on pieces produced by a particular jewelry designer.
Other Fun Collection Ideas
Some collectors focus on motifs, like animals, flowers, or celestial designs. Others collect a specific type of jewelry, such as lockets, charm bracelets, or cocktail rings. You might even build a collection around a favorite color or gemstone. The possibilities are endless. Themed collections can be especially fun to display.
Documenting Your Collection
Keep a record of your finds, including where you bought them, what you paid, and any interesting stories or provenance. This not only helps with insurance and appraisals but also makes your collection more meaningful.
Sharing and Wearing Your Vintage Jewelry
Part of the joy of collecting vintage jewelry is sharing it with others. Don’t hesitate to wear your favorite pieces. Vintage jewelry is meant to be enjoyed, not just stored away. You can also share your passion by giving vintage jewelry as gifts or passing down special pieces to family members.
Joining the Vintage Jewelry Community
Consider joining a local or online collector club, online forum, or social media group where you can swap stories, ask questions, and even trade or sell pieces. These communities are welcoming and full of helpful advice for collectors at every level.
Regardless of what jewelry you choose to collect, vintage jewelry collecting is a wonderful way to connect with history, art, and your own personal style. By learning to read hallmarks, understanding materials like amber glass and Bakelite, and knowing where to find great pieces, you’ll be well on your way to building a collection you’ll treasure for years. Most of all, enjoy the journey. Every piece you find has its own story to tell.
Jessica Kosinski has been a freelance researcher and writer since 2001. She developed a passion for pre-1990s television and films as a child and she has never grown out of it. Recently, she turned that passion into a retro TV and film blog. Follow along with her at https://medium.com/@jkos_writing, as she dives deep into the characters, actors, quirks, and trivia that brought us some of the greatest films and shows in TV history and also discusses some of the more obscure films and shows most of us may have forgotten.
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