by Sunseria Morgan, Jewelry Curator, rubylane.com

Diamonds have not always been the bright shiny sparkling jewels that we know and love today. For centuries diamonds remained uncut in their natural rough form, or were crudely shaped only with a chisel and mallet. Diamond is the hardest substance on earth, and only diamonds were used to cut diamonds until laser cutting was developed in the mid 1900s.

It was not until the 1400s when the diamond polishing wheel was invented, which was embedded with diamond dust and could slowly grind flat symmetrical facets on the surface of the rough diamond crystal, that the modern faceted diamond as we know it began to take shape. With more advancements in diamond cutting tools, and an increase in diamond sources, demand for the precious stones grew, and early forms of multi faceted brilliant cut diamonds became the cut of choice!

The “Old Mine Cut” was a popular cut from the early 1700s to the late 1800s. The Old Mine cut can be identified by its squarish
girdle outline with soft rounded corners. Old Mine cuts were shaped and faceted by hand giving each one distinctive proportions and characteristics.

The invention of the diamond bruting machine in the 1870s, allowed for the creation of the first truly round brilliant, now referred to as the “Old European Cut.” Unlike the square cushion shape of the Old Mine cut, the Old European Cut has a circular or round outline and has more even facets and uniformity.

*Rough Uncut Diamond Crystal Pendant in 18K Gold*

*Art Deco Sterling Silver Dragons Breath Ring*

Special Characteristics

Old Mine and Old European cut diamonds often have uneven facets and deeper cut proportions. Both old cuts usually have a culet, which is a small facet at the base of the diamond. The culet is not typically seen in modern cuts, and can be a clue to the age of the diamond cut. Despite their less-than-perfect symmetry, the old antique cuts can still dazzle you with their radiance.

While contemporary round brilliant cuts are designed to reflect more white light, the proportions of the old cuts often allow the stone to show more spectral colors known as “fire.” Fire is the term used when the white light breaks up within the stone, and is returned to the eye in a rainbow of colors. The old antique cuts look especially beautiful and display their fire best in candlelight. You can just imagine all the sparkling diamond color on the hands of the guests, as they raised a glass to toast at an extravagant Georgian-era dinner party.

Old cuts lacking some of the brilliance, or white light reflection of the modern cuts, can sometimes allow you to actually view into the depth of the stone, instead of being blinded by the reflected light. It’s like looking through a tiny window into a hall of mirrors!

*Art Deco Era Old European Cut Ring in Platinum*

Where Do the Names Come From?

The term Old Mine cut comes from the mining sources that were depleted, mainly located in Brazil and India, with the majority of diamonds being cut in India. New diamond sources were discovered in Africa at around the same time diamond-cutting advances were made, and new diamond-cutting industries were established in Europe.

For hundreds of years, humankind has strived to create the perfectly cut and proportioned diamond, in order to bring out the best of the stone’s optical properties. It’s only natural that once a goal is realized, we look back through all the steps that got us there in the first place and can appreciate the struggles, and imperfections we experienced along the way.

Interest for old style cut diamonds has grown significantly in recent years. I believe it’s due to our desire to connect with the past, and to possess something as unique, and perfectly flawed as each one of us!

What diamond will you choose to add to your collection next? Old, new, rough or uncut, maybe one of each …